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S&S Cycle, Inc. Performance Motorcycle Parts for American V-Twins




Are my compression releases working properly?

The main reason for compression releases is to reduce the amount of compression during the start up of your bike. Primarily if you have altered the compression ratio and have cranking compression numbers that are higher than 180psi.

If you are using S&S electronic compression releases and you are not sure if they are working properly here are some methods of checking them out.

1. Note that when you are cranking the engine that both releases are opening; this can be done by looking to see of they both drop down or by putting your finger on top and feeling the drop down motion.

2. Compression releases not sealing; to check for proper seal of the release you can do a leak down test. If the leak down percentage is high and you can here air in the exhaust it is possible that a release may not be properly sealing. If this is the situation you will need to remove both releases and verify condition. (When ever you are installing or removing compression releases it is best to remove the rocker boxes it makes the job much easier.) To verify condition, after the releases are removed look for signs of the plunger not properly sealing. Some times a poorly tuned engine will cause access carbon to build up on the release causing it to stick. The releases can be cleaned and reinstalled. If the release seems to be damaged call your S&S tech line for assistance (1-608-627-TECH (8324)).

3. Check the wiring; If you do not have the releases properly wired they may not work properly and you could run the risk of damaging the releases or some thing else on your bike. If you are unsure you can see the instruction sheets for installation online here.

4. When removing or installing our releases it is much easier to remove the rocker boxes and also the use of the S&S two piece socket will help PN 53-0045. If you choose not to use the compression releases you can install the plug into each head PN 90-4916.


How does my new SSW+ breath?

In many respects, S&S SSW+ engines are similar to Evolution style engines, but when it comes to the way they handle crankcase venting, they are a whole 'nother animal! Most S&S Evolution style and SSW+ engines have two engine breathing systems that can be used separately, or together, commonly referred to as case breathing, and head breathing.

For case breathing, SSW+ engines still uses the venerable breather gear to regulate the engine's internal airflow, just like the Evolution style engines before it. However, the head breathing arrangement is markedly different. SSW+ engines don't use hollow breather bolts to vent excess crankcase pressure to the outside. Instead, the head breathing arrangement of a SSW+ engine consists of two hoses—a small hose on the front head, and a larger hose, equipped with a one-way check valve on the rear head. (More on the check valve in a minute).

The front hose is routed from the front head to the intake manifold. It applies manifold vacuum to the crankcase anytime the engine is running. The rear hose is routed from the rear head to the carburetor backing plate (or other suitable location). Its purpose is to relieve excess crankcase pressure at all RPMs. Unlike the hose on the front head, the hose on the rear head doesn't do anything until pressure builds in the crankcase. Just remember, the front hose sucks, the rear hose blows.

The rear head breather hose on an SSW+ engine performs the same function as the breather bolts on an Evo engine; that is, venting excess crankcase pressure to the outside, without allowing outside air back in. Both engines use a check valve to perform this function.

Evo engines use a pair of umbrella valves located inside the rocker boxes, while SSW+ engines use a one-way check valve, S&S Part #50-8122. It is located outside the engine, placed in the aforementioned rear head breather hose. The one way check valve must be used with the rear head breather hose, no exceptions. (By the way, SSW+ rocker boxes will have provision for Evo style venting, but it is not functional).

The front breather hose supplies vacuum to the crankcase as added insurance against engine blow by. In most applications it is beneficial. However, there have been a few cases of this hose pulling oil into the intake, causing the engine to smoke. Using the front hose is optional. If the front hose is causing a problem, it can be removed and the fittings capped. If the front hose is removed, a check valve is still required in the rear head hose.

The one-way check valve is critical to the engine's operation. It must be installed in the hose so that air can flow out of the motor, but not back in. The valve is light colored on one end, and black on the other. You can blow through it to determine which end faces the motor, or, if you'd rather not wrap your lips around the thing, just remember—"black out"— the black end always faces out, or away from the engine.


How should I break-in my new S&S engine?
NOTE: S & S Engines require premium gasoline (octane 91 or higher) for best performance. Octane boosting gasoline additives may be necessary with marginal gasoline.

CAUTION: Low octane gasoline and hot weather can cause detonation and extensive engine damage. Never try to power through ignition knock ("ping," "rattle," etc.) by opening throttle.

CAUTION: If engine is run with foreign material in the oil tank, engine damage will occur. Engine damage caused by foreign material in the oil tank is not covered under the S&S warranty.Clean oil tank and oil cooler and flush or replace oil lines before installing engine in frame.

Engine Break-In Procedure
Note: S&S engines are designed for high performance and as such are not as tolerant of inadequate break-in as stock or lower performance engines. Correct breakin will assure longer engine life and will prevent unnecessary engine damage. Engine damage caused by improper break-in is not covered under the S&S warranty.

A. Initial start up. Run engine approximately one minute at 1250-1750 rpm. DO NOT crack throttle or subject to any loads during this period as head gaskets are susceptible to failure at this time. During this time, check to see that oil pressure is normal, that oil is returning the oil tank, and that no leaks exist.

B. Shut off engine and thoroughly check for any leaks or other problems. Let engine cool to the touch.

C. After engine has cooled, start up again and allow the motor to build some heat. Engine should be run no longer than three to four minutes. When the cylinders become warm/ hot to the touch (approximately 150°) shut the motor down and let it cool to room temp. Follow the same cautions as for the initial start-up, and continue to watch for problems.

D. Repeat this procedure 3 or 4 times. Each successive time it should take slightly longer to warm up and you can increase the temp slightly each time (+10°). You can be more liberal each time with the rpm, gently vary rpm continuously from idle up to 2500 rpm in the final cycle. Don't be too concerned with final carb settings at this time because idle speed and mixture cannot be correctly set until the motor reaches full operating temperature. The motor should not reach that temperature during these cycles. Do not allow engine temperature to become excessive. After the motor has cooled to room temperature for the final time you are ready to start the 1000 mile engine break-in process.

E. The first 50 miles are most critical for new rings and piston break-in. Engine damage is most likely to occur during this period. Keep heat down by not exceeding 2500 rpm. Avoid lugging the motor, riding in hot weather or in traffic. Vary the engine speed. Do not lug the engine. We recommend changing the oil at 50 miles.

F. The next 500 miles should be spent running engine no faster than 3500 rpm or 60 mph. Avoid continuous steady speeds, and do not lug the engine. Vary engine rpm. We recommend changing the oil again at 500 miles. 

CAUTION: Lugging or running engine prematurely at sustained high rpm may result in damage to pistons and other engine components. S&S voids it's guarantee if engine is not broken in properly.

G. For the balance of the first 1000 miles the motor can be run in a normal but conservative manner. You can be more liberal with the rpm range and motorcycle can be operated at normal highway speeds. Avoid overheating or putting any hard strain on the engine: no drag racing, dyno runs, excessive speed, trailer towing or sidecar operation.

H. After 1000 miles, verify carburetor jetting and adjustment. Change the engine oil. Motorcycle can now be operated normally.

I. Have Fun!

Ordering S&SĀ® Manifolds
We make one style of manifolds for both Harley-Davidson® Evolution® and Twin Cam 88® engines to fit stock cylinder heads and S&S cylinder heads—meaning manifolds supplied in S&S carburetor kits can be used with stock or S&S Super Stock® cylinder heads. The only thing that you have to keep in mind is that due to the slightly larger port diameter, these manifolds must be used with S&S manifold seals.

Replacement & Special Order Intake Manifolds

Stock, S&S Engine or S&S Kit: To order a replacement manifold, refer to the manifold size chart for your particular engine type. Manifolds are listed for various sized carburetors and throttle bodies in the correct lengths for engines and kits offered by S&S.

Custom Engine: If the effective cylinder length is different from the standard offerings, a special manifold can be machined to your specifications. Order manifolds using the special order part numbers listed in the charts. Allow two weeks for delivery.

Specifying Manifold Length

When ordering a special manifold, specify the length of the manifold required for your application. There are several methods to specify the length of a manifold:

Port-To-Port Distance: S&S Manifold Measuring Tools

The most accurate method for specifying length for a special order manifold.
  • Use the S&S Manifold Measuring Tools  to measure portcenter to port-center distance on an engine or an existing manifold.
  • Specify whether the measurement was from an engine or from an existing manifold. (Manifold measurements will be approximately .030” shorter than engine measurements due to clearance normally built into the manifold).

Port-To-Port Distance: Flange Method

Another accurate method of specifying manifold length for special order is to measure the port-to-port distance on an assembled or mock-up engine.
  • Assemble or mock-up the engine & install the intake flanges on heads.
  • Scribe a circle around the port using the mounting flange as a template. The circle must be the same size as the I.D. of the flange. (It is recommended that front flange be installed upside down on the rear head and vice versa, to avoid inaccuracy in the circle diameter).
  • Remove the flanges and measure the shortest distance between the scribed circles. See Diagram 1, below.



Effective Cylinder Length

Ordering a special manifold by effective cylinder length is commonly used since it does not require any special tools, however, this method will not account for machining inaccuracy in the cases or heads.
  • Measure the cylinder length from gasket-surface to gasket-surface without the head and base gaskets in place. (A precision measuring instrument, such as a dial caliper, should be used to insure accurate results).
  • If all components except the cylinder are stock, the actual cylinder length and the effective cylinder length are equal. However, if base plates will be used under the cylinders or if the crankcase deck height is taller than stock, the thickness of the base plates and any extra base gaskets, or the increase in deck height must be added to the cylinder length to determine the effective cylinder length.
  • If the cylinder heads have been decked to increase compression, the amount they have been shortened must be subtracted from the effective cylinder length.
  • If the effective cylinder length is equal to or no more than .030” longer than the cylinder length listed for a specific manifold in a chart, that manifold will fit the engine.
  • If the effective cylinder length is significantly different from any manifold that is available, the manifold must be special ordered. (When placing an order for a special manifold by effective cylinder length, you will be asked for actual dimensions of the cylinders and other components. S&S will calculate the effective cylinder length).
measuring cylinders



Manifold Size Number

Specifying the length of a special order manifold by size number has proven not to be a reliable method. Many manifolds ordered by this method have proved to be too long because the customer took a size number from a part that had been shortened and no longer matched the original specifications. Manifolds ordered by size number are not returnable because of fitment problems.

Manifolds for Panhead & Knucklehead Engines

Port-to-port measurement is easy since the ports are parallel to each other. On an assembled or mocked up engine, a measurement from head-to-head on opposite sides of each port should ideally be taken before the head bolts and base nuts are tightened. To insure that the ports are parallel, the heads and cylinders should be positioned so both measurements are equal. A precision measuring instrument, such as a dial caliper, should be used to ensure accurate results.



Piston Terms
When describing pistons for custom applications it is helpful for everyone to use the same terms. One common area of confusion is the meaning of the terms "piston deck" and "piston dome". The deck of a piston is the point at which the dome begins. Some pistons have a flat area at this point and some do not. The dome is the very top of the piston, which in some cases extends up into the combustion chamber, and in some cases is flat at the level of the deck or even below. "Deck Height" refers to the distance between the center of the wristpin hole to the deck of the piston. Piston deck height is needed to calculate cylinder length when designing an engine, or when replacing a piston in an existing engine.

Piston terms

Should I use the 1993-up breather system or the earlier crankcase breather system?
Breathers…What kind should I use?

I just got back from the Chicago bike show. I noticed that most of the S&S powered bikes used a manifold breather (feed into the back of the air cleaner housing). My engine did not come with the manifold breather tubes. It just has standard bolts in the head to mount the air cleaner. I was going to use the crankcase vent line that is next to the oil pump. A dude at the show told me that I would get a few extra horsepower if I use a manifold type breather (I don't see how) instead of the one by the oil pump.

So I guess my question is will the place I put the vent line make any change in power? Should I use both? Is one better than the other? Now my next question. To VOES or not to VOES, that is the question. To save space (and looks) I would like not to have a VOES on my ride. Will this be a problem? I was going to use a Compufire ignition system, but I see it has a switch for 100% and 50% VOES. Will I need the VOES with it?

Answer: The manifold has nothing to do with the engine breather system. The head breather system requires 1993 and newer rocker boxes and heads. If you have these then use a 1993 and up S&S Super G and you will have all you need although it probably won't make much difference in power. My choice is to use both head and crankcase breathers. VOES- ride the bike and if you have no detonation then you do NOT need the switch. If you want the VOES to work then you must use the switch and your intake manifold must have a vacuum port. Something else to keep in mind all S&S EVO style crankcases are capable of breathing out the lower end (when the 92 and earlier cam cover is used) which gives you more breathing options. You can breath out the top, bottom, or both.
Trademark Design Teardrop Air Cleaner Kits
97 inch big bore kit
High Flow Air Filter Kit
Slip-On Performance Exhaust Systems

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