distributor bushings

Paul! The old bushings are easily slit with a graver and then pulled out; the new ones press in quite easily. The hardest part about re-fitting your new bushings is keeping the bores inline. This is easy with the proper Sunnen hone mandrel,or a very long reamer that cuts exactly to your shaft size plus clearance, but both are out of reach of the average enthusiast. What is even more important (and it tightens the sideslop at the points somewhat) is to shim the shaft endplay; The thrustwashers are available in various sizes.
Colony makes the breaker post replacements.

[This message has been edited by Cotten (edited 11 April 2000).]

Paul47:
Cotten is right but lets see if we can poor boy this ok.
I usually start a tap into one bushing then drive it out with a drift pin. If you pick the right size tap there is no chance of damaging the bore. Leave the other bush in for now. Clean everything then drive the new bush in place. Now take a old worn out distributor shaft and using either a hacksaw blade or a cut off wheel in a die-grinder make four length wise cuts the length of the shaft about 1/8" deep stoping just short of where the top bush runs. Now insert the shaft through the old bush and turn it by hand untill it cuts through the new bush. You now have a new bush reamed to the size of the worn part of the shaft and straight to the case. Now insert the shaft from the other end and finish hand reaming with the un woren part of the shaft. Now remove the other bush and drive in the bush. Insert the shaft through the completed bush hand ream then ream from the other side.
I just went and checked the distributor in my 741 Indian that I did this way in 64 and it's still tight enough.
Dusty