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POWDER COATING

Use this forum for general conversation amongst yourselves when you don't have anything better to do. We like gossip! Try to keep the technical out of it.

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Post Sat Jan 19, 2013 5:53 pm

Posts: 919
Location: RENO,NV. U.S.A.
I've had quite a few parts powder coated in the past 30 years,and in the last few months while rearranging my H-D inventory I have noticed that some parts have rusted through the powder coat,while still in boxes from the powder coater. These parts were sandblasted and professionally powdercoated and cured in a oven. I also have some Chevy parts that were powder coated using the EASTWOOD equipment since 2000 and have been in boxes since moving to Nevada with rust appearing through the powder coat. Any input on this? Like I say I wasn't aware this was a problem with powder coating.I used to work at a powder coating facility in 1984 and had my '73 XLH frame done and it doesn't have any problems. Is anyone else aware of this situation? BREWSKI

Post Sun Jan 20, 2013 9:30 pm

Posts: 1027
Location: Ojo Caliente,NM,USA
I've never seen any powder coat rust through. That it wont rust through is part of the hype to get you to use it. No clue what happened.
Dusty

Post Mon Jan 21, 2013 10:33 pm
Pa Site Admin

Posts: 5775
Location: Ohio USA

I always wondered how to remove it easily.

Post Tue Jan 22, 2013 3:36 pm

Posts: 151
Location: Carver, MN

I'll take an educated guess. Over the years I have had a lot of heads and cylinders powder coated. They almost always came back with a very light surface rust on and in the guides and in the cylinder bores. My understanding was that the last step before powder was for the part to be dipped in a "solution" (degreaser or etching - don't recall that I ever heard which). The cast iron portions left bare always had the appearance of being rinsed in hot water but not immediately dried. If I had to guess, that is what I would attribute it to. As we say up here in the north country - rust never sleeps!

BTW, I don't get as many requests for the powder coating anymore, but I have not seen that "surface rust" from the shop I now take it to. Different procedures?

Either way, sorry to hear about your parts....

Post Tue Jan 22, 2013 11:07 pm

Posts: 1027
Location: Ojo Caliente,NM,USA
Shop I use sandblasts, washes in lacquer thinner bakes at 400f for an hour, washes in lacquer thinner bakes at 400f again, cools to the specified coating temp, coats and then the final bake unless its a two stage coating. I had to ask him and was surprised at the amount of prep, but his always works.
Dusty

Post Wed Jan 23, 2013 6:57 am

Posts: 67
Powder is paint. Prep is everything.

Post Mon Feb 04, 2013 7:43 pm

Posts: 2685
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Powder paint always looks like powder paint. Powder paint doesn't belong on a restored antique.

Post Mon Feb 04, 2013 10:24 pm

Posts: 1027
Location: Ojo Caliente,NM,USA
Chris Haynes wrote:
Powder paint always looks like powder paint. Powder paint doesn't belong on a restored antique.

I don't restore! I chop or bob depending on air pressure phases of the moon and what I happen to find. And some of the two stage powders fit right in.
Dusty

Post Tue Feb 05, 2013 3:41 am

Posts: 1647
I've used powder coating as a durable finish for frames especially, sometimes for simple finishes on small items like track racing fuel tanks, and always found it to be very useful. It's especially useful for things like dirt track bikes that are jet washed at the end of a meeting. I wouldn't use it for larger areas, or for jobs where finish was a prime consideration.
Shoot, a man could have a good weekend in Dallas with all that stuff...

Post Tue Feb 05, 2013 7:38 am
Pa Site Admin

Posts: 5775
Location: Ohio USA

Chris Haynes wrote:
Powder paint always looks like powder paint. Powder paint doesn't belong on a restored antique.


Powder coat is definately no good for restorations. It fills in seams which should be exposed. It also hides split lines. It is definately good for non restorations and custom machines.


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