45WLA Hand Clutch, Foot Shift & Gear Indicator

I haven't posted to this board in years. Life just intervened too much... but since someone found my email and asked for this info, I have a few old archived pix that may prove useful to anyone endeavouring to do this. Hopefully the pix will suffice without undue text.











[imghttp://enigmas.customer.netspace.net.au/WLA%20Handclutch%203speed/11.JPG][/img]


This pic is a bit dark but you should still be able to see the cable end in the clutch fork. (I shortened the clutch a bit to gain adequate movement)
Note:
Use a heavy section clutch cable if you can. You'll find there will be reduced 'stiction' between the inner and outer of the cable.
I just used an accessory clutch lever and with the standard WLA clutch the lever pressure was quite light.
The combination of foot shift and hand clutch was very easy to use but you can very easily go from 1st gear through to 3rd until you develop some feel in your 'shifter' foot. Setup properly the action is very smooth.

~ Vince (aka enigmas)

[Pa]

Good to see you back Bro !! I lightened the pic up a bit for you. Pa

12.jpg

How does the hand lever negotiate the stops in the gate when using the foot lever?

I briefly owned a bike with a change of this sort, but with no gate on the hand lever and gave it up as a bad job because of the problems mentioned of changing straight through the gears....

45Brit, it's just a straight forward mechanical linkage. It worked very well. Nothing mysterious. The correct length pivot points ensure the indicator is pointing to the correct spot. I didn't need to do it at the time...just thought it would be interesting. ~ Vince

so, am I right in thinking the hand lever is bent so that it bears against the outside ( straight side ) of the gate and doesn't engage the stops in the gate? Mine was like that and I never could get on with it, in the end I put the foot clutch back on and kept the hand lever as an aid for traffic, which was handy.

Agree with your comments about the heavy cable and re-located lever position to get enough lift in the clutch. I also used a Triumph handlebar lever because (a) I didn't have anything else and (b) the lever geometry is better suited to a hand clutch than the Harley one. I really don't see why anyone would need a mousetrap on a 45

45Brit, the 'handlever' you refer to is not one at all...it purely acts as an indicator and is fabricated from the small aluminium flat bars that hold the files up in a filing cabinet. (I just happened to have some at hand)

Yes the 'indicator' moves against the flat side of the gate. This is quite clear in the 3rd picture. I never had any trouble with this, but it would be just as easy to file off the gate locks and have a clean slot.
I adjusted the 'detent' on the original 45 box for slightly more resistance until the shift 'felt' correct for me. As I've stated...it was smooth and easy to use once you adjusted to the feel of the shift.

Pollock this reply is for you in response to your email to me but may be of use to anyone else interested in doing this mod.

Ensuring the clutch releases when using a hand clutch lever

1. For a smooth easy action use a heavy duty clutch cable (less stiction)

2. Reduce the length of the clutch fork lever. Less leverage but more movement. This does not mean the hand clutch becomes heavy to use. The action is quite light. From recollection I believe I removed 1.5" - 2" of clutch fork at it's cable end. Don't over do it though. You may have to do this in increments till you have adequate movement for disengagement.

3. Do not overadjust the spring tension on the clutch pack. Most do. It only requires sufficient tension to not slip. I used to ride 2 up on occasion ( with the missus) and there was no indication of slip. It's been a long time since I did this conversion and I've since sold the gearbox, so I can't measure the modified length of the clutch fork.

4. I cut the end of the clutch fork that the cable end fitted into off, removed a small section (say 1") below this and then rewelded the end piece back on. That's why the clutch fork in the photo looks like a standard item. It's actually shorter in length than a standard unit. More movement less leverage

Thank you very much for responding. I see others are interested in your knowledge also.
Again thanks for taking the time to post.
Engine is still on the bench in pieces....but I knew this was going to be a challenge.
I am still not sure about a few things but think I need to start running cables ect. before I need further help.
Pollock