Board index Flathead Power-Technical Questions, Answers, and Suggestions K-Models Cam Cover bushing???

Cam Cover bushing???

Post Sun Apr 17, 2011 1:40 am

Posts: 976
Location: Markt Einersheim, Germany

Hi all..

For all that has built a WL/'s a question for you. And I hope that the question makes sense.

Using a set of KH cams, the rear exaust cam shafts don't have the oil pump driving dogs.

WL rear exaust cam has the tits that drive the oil pump.

What bushing did you guys use to be able to use the KH cams, in a WL cam cover? Because the ID of the bushing is larger on the WL.

As is, with the straight (no driving tits) for the oil pump.

My engine has a modified oil supply system similiar to Dr Dicks frankenstein, Woodys and modified like Jim Casey's book.

I have looked at what manuals that I have and can't seem to find a part number to something that would work.

Or do I have to custom make one? OR would it be just better to replace the cam shaft with one from a WL and grind off the driving ears??


Post Sun Apr 17, 2011 3:52 pm

Posts: 48
Ha! If you replace it with a WL shaft and then grind off the tits, you end up exactly where you started :-)
Have you been on the Jagermeister again George? Yes I also started with a KH set and just replaced it with a WL shaft, works! Whatever you do, don't grind off the tits.
I am writing this from vague memory, did it years and years ago. Am sure I did replace a shaft and nothing else.

Post Sun Apr 17, 2011 8:43 pm

Posts: 976
Location: Markt Einersheim, Germany


My oil pump don't have any internals in it other than a filter, all it is going to be is a distribution block supplying filtered oil to the skirt oilers, the driving tit on the WL shaft is not doing anything.

The supply of oil will be coming from the modified, scavange/pressure pump that I made.

I was just trying to avoid looking to buying another part for this....or messing with the original KH cams.

Who's got a WL rear exaust cam gear shaft they would care to part with? Don't want, nor need a entire set.


Post Sun Apr 17, 2011 9:16 pm

Posts: 391
Just press a sleeve on the existing shaft to bring it up to the size you need. No need to modify or destroy any original bit. And no big deal to make.

Post Sun Apr 17, 2011 9:33 pm

Posts: 976
Location: Markt Einersheim, Germany


I just may do that......

And as a option, Larry Elias' website shows the cam gear's shafts seperate, so if your looking for only to replace cam shafts, and not looking for a entire set, he's got them.


Post Wed Apr 20, 2011 8:25 am

Posts: 48
Sorry George for doubting your sobriety and even making fun of it!
I should have recognized the subject was outside my area of expertise.

Post Wed Apr 20, 2011 8:35 pm

Posts: 976
Location: Markt Einersheim, Germany


No worries at all. :D

Outside your level of, I doubt that.
Matter of fact, when I think back on this project, you were one of the inspirations that got it going.

I will be posting photos of the progress on the engine soon. As I just made some plumbing lines for the pumps.

For now, here is a link to the site that I go to where posting photos is SUPER easy. ... =55&t=7618


Post Thu Apr 21, 2011 4:37 pm

Posts: 141
Location: USA
Hey George I saw your crank case ,if your going the K Model top end you will probably have to grind off the factory regulator mount for the pipes to clear and before I forget you will need to take a dreamal and grind a little more clearance behind the front and rear exhaust valve covers.Now save yourself a headache and order Bruce's valve covers,the fit far better than the factory WR valve covers,(I ordered some cool high tech rubber bands to slip over the valve covers and would gladly give you the information or I could just get you some and slip them in the mail).Another thing to to think about is that the short 750 cc K model cylinders are way cheaper and if you use stroker plates you can get the maximum cubic inch,more power and save money.I also got Bruce's new valve tappet screws because his screws were threaded up farther than the factory originals enabling me to have a wider range of valve adjustment that I needed to compensate for my custom valves and stroker plates. I was able to turn the stroker plates down on a lathe in order to get the .035 clearance I needed between the top of my pop K Model pistons and the piston pocket in the heads.I am running the 4 5/8'' stroke and just shortened the piston skirts to clear the flywheel .Hope this helps. ... ure003.jpg

Post Thu Jul 21, 2011 11:07 am

Posts: 112
take the #1 bushing out and put a #3 cover bushing in.

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