Timing help needed

Hi there,

I`m trying to time my 1946 Chief but don't find the $ sign on the fly wheels. The only sign I find is a "+" sign. Can anybody help?
I didn't see the engine apart.

thanks
Klaus

The$ is the timing mark, the + mark is the top dead center mark. The $ comes first then right behind is the + sign, actually a division sign.

Thanks Neil,

the funny part is, that there is no other sign and the "+" looks like a real + and not a -. The "+" looks like a factory stamp. Assuming that it defines the TDC, how many degrees away should I then find the "$" sign (or the timing position)?

thanks
Klaus

Klaus, With the $ sign in center of window you will be 1/2 inch before top dead center, Both signs are in the narrow part of flywheel face. They are very near 2 1/2 inches apart on circumference. My 46 and 47 motors also look like + signs:)

.....and how do you time the engine if there is no timing whole in the left crankcase? Do I have to remove the front cylinder head? That would be hard- there is only little space to do that!!!
Oliver

..

Never seen cases without a timing plug:) But Panic is right, rear would be easier.

No timing hole prior to ABOUT '43-'44. Why would the rear be easier?

Didn't know that:) I guess either cylinder head off an 1/2 inch before TDC, which ever you prefer. How would you go about it Indianut?

Timing may be done on the rear cylinder with the head removed and based upon piston height from the cylinder deck. The specs call for the piston to be 17/32” below the cylinder deck coming up on the compression stroke. I have developed a handy-dandy timing tool that allows you to time based on piston height with the rear head on the engine using the spark plug hole.

..

) Exactly why I use timing marks to get close, then move distributor to where engine runs best and starts best.

Point is to get it close without having to disassemble the rear cylinder head. Indeed most distributors have enough slop in their drive gear and rotor slot to offset otherwise "perfect" timing.

This tool slips into the rear cylinder spark plug hole and rests on the closed exhaust valve and is slightly longer than 17/32" to make up the difference.

This method with such a tool was always in my mind- and you did it, great Johnmcmd! But why the rear cylinder? My Chief manual tells me to time at the front cylinder!?!

Timing on the front cylinder (when there is a timing plug) is because the timing marks on the flywheel are indexed to the position of the front cylinder piston. This is a V-twin with the cylinders offset by 42 degrees so the rear cylinder does not fire at the same timing mark. This maybe somewhat moot on an earlier engine without a timing plug to line up the flywheel timing mark. If you were doing it solely on piston height then it really wouldn't matter...except for ease of access. I have a clear lucite plug for the timing plug and have painted a white index mark on the flywheel. This way I can line up the mark with the hole (make sure front piston is on compression stroke); turn the ignition on; fully advance the spark; and then rotate the distributor until the amp meter fluxuates on-off. That will static time your engine. Then I run it with a timing light on the front ignition wire to dynamically test the timing.

The timing hole is the 2nd from the bottom in the picture


[quote="indianut"]No timing hole prior to ABOUT '43-'44. Why would the rear be easier?

Indian specified timing on the rear cylinder on the older engines that had the timing hole at the bottom. They specified the timing in fractions of an inch before TDC. Most of these flywheels only marked TDC if they were marked at all although I have seen a set with marks for both case styles. The later engines that had the large timing hole at the top specified timing on the front cylinder and usually had TDC and the timing mark but timing in fractions of an inch were still specified.
Dusty