Pretty much anything not covered by the topics above. Short lived production bikes or vehicles, Electrical, Tires, Paint, Brakes, etc. Use this for tech questions, and "Shoot the Bull" for general conversation, no tech.
The shaving of lining from the trailing shoe lowers the friction between that shoe and the drum and hence the pressure of the trailing shoe on the cam, so more pressure of the cam is directed towards the leading shoe. Remember: the trailing shoe is hardly adding braking power, it is just consuming cam pressure (hence the TLS solution). In practice, HD brakes are so under-dimensioned that applying more pressure to the leading shoe does not increase braking much (at a certain moment the braking action of a lining does not increase any more with the pressure from the cam). I have tried this shaving myself, but it was fruitless.
I was thinking of this: Shorten the shoes in the cam-end (might need some welding). Then make the anchor-pin rectangular. The box will not be able to rotate in this manner. Then you modify the box to have 1/2" round shape to fit the shape of the shoes. A small spring could be added to positivly move the box to the left when the brake is released.
Another thaught: moderrn air-operated truck brakes uses cams. Is there any theory to learn from them?
The 45 depot 2LS conversion works better than the stock unit, which isn't really saying much. Overheating, fade and brake drum distortion are the limiting factors.
If you want reasonable brakes with a period look, ditch the stock wheels and use a BSA or Honda 8" SLS or 2LS drum. Various threads on that on here already. If you want as much braking power as the springer fork will be able to handle, use a single disc. Plenty of details on here for that, too. If you want a stock appearance, learn to live with the crappy brakes.
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