WLA Frame

I have a frame that I dragged out from under the bench, for my next restoration. It has 2 peices of 1 inch angle iron about 6 inches long, fitted parrallel, and brazed over the rear LHS top tube, just back from the battery box. Anyway, I melted the brazing away to get the angle iron peices off, to reveil, the reason why underneath. The frame tube had fractured completely in half, just where the factory brazed on lug finishes. The serated edges match, but the LHS tube is very slightly bent, to the naked eye, and also the two top tubes and the two bottom tubes of the rear frame section are out of kilter with each other. There is mis-alignment somewhere, between the centre line of the back axle, and the centre line of the steering stem tube, 90 degrees apart. Obviuosly the rear frame section has suffered some sort of trauma.
When I completey 100% built up the bike ready for painting, everything aligns up nicely. Everything fits good. Everything looks good.
Me and my freind musse that it must have taken a direct bullet hit, maybe in the suburbs of Berlin.
If only these frames could talk.
Is there any further info out there regards specific frame aligment data in addition to military manual TM-1175. pages 73/74
I haven't yet read Bruce Palmers encyclopeidia.
Also what specific metal is WLA frames made of. Bsa M20's were "Austenitic Iron"
Is there a special stick rod to weld the fracture directly, or do I need mig, or tig. I'm not a welder, but I have to find out the info for my welder to repair.
Hope you can help.
Regards Keith

[Pa]

This servi car frame dimension drawing may help you out a bit. Every dimension from the seat post froward is basically the same as a solo frame. Pa

Thank-you for the very detailed frame dimensions. I would be good If I could get the dimensions for the rear section.
I would definately be able to sort out the problem then. In the meantime, I can use this drawing to get started.
Regards Keith

[Pa]

Keith, you can use the manual straighting specs to figure the solo rear section from this blueprint. Along with the complete axle wheel and spacers, you will be able to calculate the rear section centerline. From there, piece of cake. The trannsmission mounting section, of the above blueprint, is the same as a solo also. The axle leg bending is where things change from a solo to a servi car frame geometry. Pa

Yes OK then, I think you are right. I have the main dimensions from the servi car drawings you sent. Thank-you again.
Keith

I am building a WL and I noticed that I could not fit the rear wheel in the frame of because rear part of frame is too narrow. Forgings between which there is mounted the rear whel on the rear axle is a few mm too narrow. Perhaps the problem is not the frame but the rear axle spacer. So please, let me know what should be the exact distance measured between the rear forgings, measured between their inside parts (as shown on the attached picture - not mine). Let me know also how long is the rear axle spacer (this on the left side of axle between frame and star hub) - part number 4007-38.

I don't have the dimensions you need at hand but aim to provide caution that even if you have a 3 bolt transmission mount, your frame could be for 1940 and earlier as replacement frames made post 1940 used the new 3 bolt forging / casting with the rear legs set up for the narrower transmission and rear wheel assembly used prior to 1941.
Someone will be along with the needed measurements or, if not lost, they are in the archives.

See post titled

Frame fooled me