WLA Trans In Progress

[Pa]

I still can't believe I did that Mike. Without you pointing it out, I wouldn't have realized it until it was was to late.

Parts books with no parts ??? 061 lock washer tells that story. Pa

hey i have guys point out stuff to me constantly i did not know or forgot paul
i wish i just had a memory like chris haynes or some of these other really knowledgable guys
seems i forget half the stuff after not doing it for a few yrs

the flames have died down a little on this issue so I thought I'd poke the fire a bit. I found this in the TM-10-1482. I have to go with Pa, there is no special tool (like a pilot) listed for align-boring or reaming the races in the case. The reamers, I'm sure, were intended only for fitting the gear and bushing to each other and not to the case itself. As you can see they are listed for Base use and not intended for Field repairs.

mike

[Pa]

I have both of those reamers Mike. Bought them both in nos military packaging. I've never used the clutch gear reamer. I do the clutch gear bushing just like Bruce Palmer but I tool the bushing to size and leave the reamer out of the procedure. Pa

Great job on this assembly Paul. I hope my ink cartrige holds out. Hey... you going to Salem this weekend?

ok simple question
do you honestly think the factory ever used a reamer if they wanted a accurate job done ?
you know i'm talking besides brake shafts or seat post bushing that did not require true accuracies just a nice fit
reamers create highs and lows in the bushing
guess what happens after a few hundred miles when the highs wear down
logic or common since prevails all book knowledge
i wont dispute the line hone issue any longer
i just know what i know is best for my bikes no matter what you see or read in any HD mistake laden books
the best of my ability and knowledge is what my bikes get both change for the better from day to day

[Pa]

ok simple question
do you honestly think the factory ever used a reamer if they wanted a accurate job done ?
you know i'm talking besides brake shafts or seat post bushing that did not require true accuracies just a nice fit
reamers create highs and lows in the bushing
guess what happens after a few hundred miles when the highs wear down
logic or common since prevails all book knowledge
i wont dispute the line hone issue any longer
i just know what i know is best for my bikes no matter what you see or read in any HD mistake laden books
the best of my ability and knowledge is what my bikes get both change for the better from day to day

Actually Mike....the factory did use the reamers in production. For the times, they were more than accurate enough for the purpose. All manufactures used reamers back then, even automotive, where bushings were concerned. While working heavy industry, I used reamers while building new machinery. Machine driven shell reamers, were the normal type reamer used there. You can poke a lot of on size holes with a reamer, before the reamer dulls out. A single point tool or hone contantly needs adjusted to size. This takes time and time is money. Replacing tooling costs money as well. Your method is definately more accurate though. You are absolutely right about highs and lows caused by hand reamers. Machine driven shell reamers put a great finish in and micing that finish will find no out of round, nor high and low, spots, while using a .001" graduated mic. It is pretty difficult to keep a hand reamer inline. Most do not use a hand reamer properly. Bushing reamer stock should be less than .015" total, before attempting to ream. A hand reamer should be pushed through the bushing before turning the reamer one full revolution. The reamer, if in a blind hole, should be pulled straight out, after turning the reamer one full revolution. In an open hole, the reamer should be removed from the handle on the other end of the bushing. If a bushing is reamed to the smallest tolerance diameter, the high and low spots will wear to the mid and upper tolerances, before the highs and lows disappear. My biggest concern with reamer use is this......Holding the centerline with them !! Reamers tend to follow the existing bore. If that bore is off center any....so is the reamer. Even a machine driven shell reamer will pull, to follow the existing bore in a bushing. A hone will only follow an existing bore as well. A hone will not make an egg shaped hole round either. A reamer and lapping tool, will make it round though. The pros and cons while building.......There are many. Line boring and line honing are the best methods, but even these methods rely on accurate bore locations. I prefer machine tooling any day for both location and line boring. Once I hit those, and have obtained the round holes, I can repeat those locations and use a hone where applicable, in order to obtain a better surface finish, again...where applicable. Pa

[Pa]

Great job on this assembly Paul. I hope my ink cartrige holds out. Hey... you going to Salem this weekend?

Thanks Steve...If I can only keep the glitches and blunders from surfacing along the way. Yeah....I believ I will pop in at Salem for a quick run through it. Pa

[Pa]

Reference....First three photos below......
2426-41 clutch release lever is now installed. The process to install it is not difficult. There are a couple of things to take note off when installing one. First....The 2432-41 lock washers [ see first photo below ] for the 2431-41 pivot screws, must be installed correctly. The lock washer has a small tap on it which seats into hole in the 2426-41 clutch release lever. The lock washer also has to wider tabs. These tabs are for locking the washer to the hex head of the 2431-41 pivot screw. Bending one, is all that is needed, to retain the pivot screw in place. Second....When installing the 2431-41 pivot screws, do not over tighten them. Over tightening them will crush the thin ears of the clutch release levers walls, binding the wals of the clutch release lever, against the sprocket cover. Over tightening may also strip the threads out of it. The clutch release lever needs free movement. Tighten down the 2431-41 pivot screws to snug, while making certain the 2432-41 lock washers small tab, stays put in the hole in the clutch release arm, as you tighten them down. Once you bottom the head of the 2431-41 pivot screws against the face of the 2432-41 lock washers, adjust pivot screws, in or out, until you line up one of the pivot screws hex head flats, to one of the larger tabs of the lock washers. Bend tab to lock pivot screw in place. Note.....Grease the 2431-41 pivot screw journals before installing them. Pa







Since I am this far along, I went ahead and threaded the 2328-27 transmission adjusting bolt, and the 2326-41 lube filler plug, into the transmission case. See next two photos below. Pa

[Pa]

I forgot to post a photo of the 2326-41 lube filler plug. Sorry about that.............



Since this transmission will be set aside for a spell, after build is completed, I screwed the 2515-41 clutch gear nut onto the clutch gear, to protect the clutch gear thread. NOS clutch gear nuts are easy to find. NOS clutch gears are just about impossible to find. Pa

Just wondering

Are you going to continue with the rest of the power train?
Clutch,chain,sprockets rear wheel.
I don't mean to be greedy.
Its just that my laptop has become one of the tools in the garage.

Brendan

[Pa]

We will see Brendan. I started this build already in progress. I need to address the case bushings before I go on, specifically the gear shifter lever shaft bushings and the countershaft bushing. I should address the tripper bolts as well. I had those completed before the build topic began. Once I put the top cover on this tranny, the build will end. It is my hope, other builders will join in, and explain the procedures they used. Mine are not the only means to rebuilding a 45 transmission, just my preference. The drive train involves more than just the clutch etc.... It involves the frame as well. I have a ways to go on my early type III 42wla restoration, before I can get to the drive train. I have frame work to do. Engine work to do, etc.... We have some real expert engine builders on this forum. Even my trans build has relied on many of the experts who requent this forum. My knowledge is not only my own. It is a combination of the brilliant minds I am blessed with being associated with. My engine build will be such a build as well. Again.....my true hope.....is that my mentors will participate in the completion of the complete motorcycle. Without those mentors, my knowledge would be short of expertice. I believe this topic has brought forth comments from some of those such mentors. I have deep respect for all of them. Though I disagree with some of their procedures. The end results....both from mine....and from theirs....makes for a great running build. I tip my hat to those who have posted on this topic. I am lucky enough to know them all ! For those who have remained behind the scenes.....I know you as well. My respect for you is infinate also. I won't name any names....but the most knowledgable of builders have followed this topic. Again...I am fortunate to know them as well. I must have gotten something correct. They didn't jump in and correct me. Don't fret none though....they would have, if I had screwed up. Pa

[Pa]

As seen in the first photo below, I've temporarily installed the 0230 washers and the 2644-30 nuts on the transmission mounting studs. They won't get lost this way and they will protect the mounting stud threads.

The second photo below is the transmission as completed. The 2270-41 top cover is fake cad plated. I will be replacing it with a real cad plated one as soon as the real cad plated one is sent back to me. There is nothing much to talk about in regards to installing the top cover. I use the gasket without sealer. I also tighten down the screws in a staggered fashion. One thing to note with the top cover.....On the shifter gear side of the cover, the raised radius covering the shifter gear, there is a small hole in the wall of the top cover. "See third photo below" This small hole is a breather hole. Make sure it is clear of any blockage. The gear lube needs to breath. The lube will foam up without a breather hole.

This completes the build of my early type III 42 WLA transmission. Pa

paul i see your point about a machine ran reamer compared to a hand twisted one
very nice rebuild job paul
you are considered by me a very good friend and have my utmost respect as you always have

[Pa]

Like wise Bro !!! And THANK YOU. I said this was gonna be a sad moment when those nos parts were all used up. Now the tear in me eye is brought forth from a super FRIEND instead. I'm touched Mike. Deeply touched...... How do I spell COOL ? MIKE ! Pa

i may have missed it in the reading but in case you left out this i'll state it
after the side cover is on the trans and you know for sure its not coming back off till the next rebuild
at the screws slots take a small center punch and stake the cover to keep the screws from backing out
if what i'm saying doesn't make since i can post a pic or 2

[Pa]

Makes sense to me Mike. I've seen many a cover staked like that. I should have mentioned it but it plum slipped my mind. I use the removable lock tight on mine. I didn't mention that either. Please post a pic so the other viewers will know what you mean. Pictures speak a thousand words. Pa

Adda boy! Great job Paul. Time for a well deserved rest and a beverage. So when can you start on mine?
I'll be there early Sunday. Bring that puppy with ya, I'd love to see it in person. I don't get many chances to see a "CORRECT" sixty year old tranny.

[Pa]

Thanks Bro !!!!!! 67 years old Steve. I'll bring it along with me. See ya Sunday. Pa

[Pa]

Steve.....had a great time spent with ya ! You and I didn't do to shabby at the meet ! And......thanks for the beers !!! Made my day ! The meet was the best I seen there in years. There was actually some vintage Hog parts to be had. I appreciate the comments on my early type III 42wla tranny too ! We need to hook up at Wauseon ! Pa