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WLA Trans In Progress

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enigmas

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Post Fri Mar 27, 2009 9:44 pm

Re: WLA Trans In Progress

Very anal Paul. Nice layout of components with pix and instructions....but couldn't you have been a bit more comprehensive!
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Pa

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Post Fri Mar 27, 2009 10:01 pm

Re: WLA Trans In Progress

but couldn't you have been a bit more comprehensive!

Am I to shallow on my instruction Vince ? I know my photography needs a lot of work. Pa
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enigmas

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Post Sat Mar 28, 2009 7:55 am

Re: WLA Trans In Progress

No Paul, to use an Aussie expression..."I'm pulling your leg." It's very comprehensive and an excellent presentation.
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Pa

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Post Sat Mar 28, 2009 10:26 am

Re: WLA Trans In Progress

Thanks Vince !! :D That Aussie expression " i'm pulling your leg" was used by my parents. That was years ago. I have'nt heard the phrase since, until you mentioned it. :) Speaking of Down Under.... There is a New Zealand comedy duo, going to do a show at one of our local colleges real soon. The are known as the "Flight of the Conchords". Funnnnnnnny Stuff !!! Pa
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Pa

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Post Sat Mar 28, 2009 10:32 am

Re: WLA Trans In Progress

The next two photos below, are parts we will need to deal with, before we can deal with the parts in the previous photo.

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Image
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Pa

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Post Sat Mar 28, 2009 12:23 pm

Re: WLA Trans In Progress

We need to deal with the shifter lever parts next. Before assembling the shifter lever components to the transmission case, I advise checking the fit of the squared hole of the 2241-41 shifter gear to the squared shaft area of the 2242-40 gear shifter lever shaft. Many times the two parts are a bit to tight to each other. They should slip together with very light pressure. loose is no good but tight is worse. If loose, one can shim to take up slack. If tight, assembly to the case is but impossible. Fitting tight parts is best accomplished by filing the square part of the gear shifter lever shaft. File easily and check fit frequently. Once the two parts slide together well, we can assemble them to the transmission case. Looking at the 2241-41 shifter gear, you will note that one face of the gear is dished out and accommodates a pilot boss around the center of the square bore. This side faces the left side of the transmission case when the gear is installed, The pilot centers and holds the 2166-26 gear shifter lever shaft spring in position. Position the 2166-26 spring onto the pilot boss of the shifter gear. Compress the spring, using two hands and fingers, and slip the two components into the transmission case, between the two gear shifter lever bushings. The large left side shifter lever bushing accommodates a spring pilot also. Getting the two components into position is a little tricky. Once you have the two in their respective positions, rotate the shifter gear so the teeth are facing towards the rear of the transmission case. Where gear teeth begin on gear, should be almost in a vertical position. Look into the outer face of the large left side case bushing. Adjust the gears square bore on center with the bushings bore. Next we will install the 2245-26 leather washer onto the 2242-40 gear shifter lever shaft. Slide the washer all the way onto the shaft. This is the perfect time to grease the two bushings and the gear shifter lever shaft. The location of these components, in a 45 transmission, prevents the components from receiving much, if any, of the transmission oil, for lubrication. Almost all the 45 transmissions I have ever opened up, were rusted up pretty good in this area. Grease is a real friend here ! Going on.... Holding the gear shifter lever shaft, so that the lever itself, is almost in a vertical position, align the shaft to the to the large case bushing and adjust, either direction, in order to align the shifter gear square bore, to the square shaft end. Start the shaft into the bore and shifter gear. Don’t force the parts together. Gently work, using prying tools, to support and align the shifter gear to the gear shifter lever shaft as they continue to slide together. Once the leather washers makes contact with the face of the case bushing, we must maintain the position and pry the shifter gear further onto the gear shifter lever shaft, until the groove on the shaft, for the 2242-38A shifter gear retaining spring is fully visible. Here is where you need three hands. While keeping the components in this position, the spring retainer needs placed into position. Needle nosed pliers are a big help with this. Push the retainer over the small shaft diameter below the surface of the spring retainer groove. The spring retainer will lock itself to the small diameter part of the shaft.

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Pa

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Post Sat Mar 28, 2009 7:30 pm

Re: WLA Trans In Progress

Now we need to install the 2243-41 gear shifting cam. I've already pointed out the number 3 mark on the 2241-41 shifter gear. This mark is what we will time the gear shifting cam to. The gear shifting cam has its own timing mark identification. The small gear, affixed to the end of the gear shifting cam, has one single beveled gear tooth on it. "SEE PHOTO" we must install the gear shifting cam, so the beveled gear tooth, will align with the number three tooth, on the shifter gear, when the two gears mesh together, as they roll with each other. This is a bit tricky and may take several installation attempts, before you get the two gears, timed with each other correctly. The trick is to rotate the gear shifter lever shaft assembly until you locate the number 3 tooth on it, and then re rotate the gear shifter lever shaft assembly, clockwise, until the last tooth of the shifter gear is in a vertical position, facing up. Count the number of teeth, from the number three identification, which was rolled away. Now we can slip the 2243-41 gear shifter cam into its position. To do this, we must position the open clearance slot on the right end of the gear shifter cam, in position to enter the transmission case first, with the clearance slot facing down, in a vertical position, while keeping the gear shifter cam square and parallel, to the transmission case, and gently lowering it into position with the shifter gear ,and the 2244-41 gear shifter camshaft bores. Locate the beveled gear tooth on the gear shifter cam and roll the gear shfter cam the same amount of teeth, for which you rolled the shifter gear, the opposite direction, before you allow the to gears to mesh with each other. there is enough room in the gearbox, towards the rear of the gearbox, to do this. We now must simultaneously align the gear shifter cam shaft bores to the gear shifter cam shaft, and the gear shifter cams gear teeth to the shifter gears teeth, so that when the two components are rolled, once the gear shifter cam shaft is installed, the beveled gear tooth, on the gear shifter cam, will mesh with the shifter gears number three tooth mark. Don't force the gear shifter cam shaft into position. If it does not go in freely, you do not have all the positions aligned properly. This usually takes several attempts before successful. Once you accomplish this, you now need to slide the gear shifter cam shaft into the gearbox gear shifter cam shaft bore, from the right side, on through the shifter cam, and into the gear shifter cam shaft bore on the left gearbox side. Now we need to roll the shifter gear lever assembly, to verify timing mark alignment. If incorrect, try again. Once we get the timing marks alignment correctly, we have only just began. LOL !! Next.. Make sure the gear shifter cam shaft stays in position and then push the shifter cam towards the left side of the transmission case, until you are certain, the shifter cam gear face, is seated against the transmissions shifter cam shafts bore face. Now push the gear shifter cam the opposite direction, all way back across to the right side of the transmissions shifter cam shaft bore face. Using a feeler type leaf gauge, measure the distance between the gear shifter cams gear face and the transmissions gear shifter cam bore face. If more than .005”, purchase shim or shims to take up the excessive endplay. I have not read one single service manual which directs attention to excessive gear shifter cam endplay. But believe me....this endplay is critical in determining easy shifting on a 45 transmission. Though you may have held mainshaft and gear endplay tolerances, during your build, this endplay could eliminate all your effort. If you don’t take care of the gear shifter cam endplay now. .003” to .005” is what you want, if you wish not to compromise your previously set tolerances, and your, yet to come, shifter fork tolerances. Installing a shim between the gear shifter cam and the transmissions gear shifter cam shaft bore face is tricky also. You will only want to do this once ! It is not necessary to install the shim now. What is necessary, is to know a value on the shim needed, if one is needed, This value will play a part while adjusting shifter fork specifications and when shifter fork adjustments have been completed. To get around the lack of a shim, during shifter fork adjustments, we will position the gear shifter cam, always against the transmissions, right side gear shifter cam shaft bore face. You may ask yourself...why is there not a part number for such a gear shifter cam shaft shim ? I will tell you why. When these old transmission were first built, the clearances were already machined in. There was no need for another part. Over time and use, the transmission case, gear shifter cam shaft bore faces, wore down, creating excessive endplay clearances. You may also ask...How did the mechanics repair this ? They didn’t repair this ! They replaced the transmission case, and or, the gear shifter cam. Continuing.... Now we get to take all the gear shifter cam components back out of the transmission case. Don’t worry though...we get to put them back in and take them back out, several mores times yet. LOL Because..... we have to remove and install them again so many times, we need to remember what we just did, when installing, and removing them. The three photos below reference this segment of the build.

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Pa

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Post Sun Mar 29, 2009 5:35 pm

Re: WLA Trans In Progress

OK.....Now we can work with the shifter fork components, shown in a previous photo, of the shifter fork parts list.

We must first assemble a low and a high, shifter fork assembly. The photo below this paragraph, shows both assemblies. The only real difference between the low and high shifter fork assemblies, is the locations of where the 2247-41 gear shifter fork and the 2248-36 shifting finger, are located. On the low shifting fork assembly, the gear shifter fork is located on the left of the shifting finger. On the high shifting fork assembly, the gear shifter fork is located on the right of the shifting finger. Though noted in the photo, I will note it here also. All 2253-33A and 2253-33B shims, are positioned between the gear shifter fork and shifting finger, of both assemblies. Assemble parts, for a low shifter fork assembly, in the following order. 2249-41 shifting fork bushing [ hold so threaded end is facing left ], add a 2248-36 shifting finger [ part is keyed and will go on either way. either way is ok ], add one each of the 2253-33A and 2253-33B shims [ the 2253-33A shim is .014" thick. The 2253-33B shim is .007" thick. We are only one of each shim for a reference. We will add or subtract from them later on through the fitting process ], add 2247-41 gear shifter fork [ gear shifter fork is keyed. hold the partial assembly so you are looking through the bore from the threaded end. With the 2248-36 shifting fingers tit facing down, assemble the gear shifter fork facing to the left. ], add a 2253-33 spacer shim, add a 2251-33 bushing lock washer. [ lock washer is keyed and has two tabs on it. The two tabs are already bent slightly. Position tabs with their bends facing away from the spacing shim ], and then add a 2250-33 nut [ the nut is counter bored. Position counter-bore, facing towards the lock washer. Making sure the lock washers key is seated in the shifting fork bushing, tighten down the nut. Be careful not to over or under tighten. Sorry...no torque specs here either. Now set the assembly aside.

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Assemble parts, for a high shifter fork assembly, in the following order. 2249-41 shifting fork bushing, add a 2247-41 gear shifter fork, and one each 2253-33A and 2253-33B shims [ temporary, as with the low shifter fork assembly ], add a 2248-36 shifting finger [ hold the partial assembly so you are looking through the bore of the threaded end, with the gear shifting fork facing to your left. Install the shifting finger with the tit facing up. ], add a 2253-33 spacer shim, add a 2251-33 bushing lock washer, and then add a 2250-33 nut. Position of the lock washer and nut is the same as it was on the low shifter fork assembly. Tightened down like the low shifter fork assembly also. Set assembly aside.
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Pa

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Post Sun Mar 29, 2009 5:42 pm

Re: WLA Trans In Progress

Hey People ! If you find any typo's in my instruction or incorrect data, such as part numbers, what have you, don't be bashful. Please inform me so I can correct the boo boos. I wouldn't want anyone, who may be saving the info, to be steered wrong. Though my wla transmission is coming along just super and I have been able to hold specs so well, I do the typing stuff after the fact and proofing my typing, isn't one of my greatest skills :mrgreen: Thanks, Pa
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Pa

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Post Mon Mar 30, 2009 2:45 pm

Re: WLA Trans In Progress

Installing gear shifter fork assemblies.....Now that we have both the low and high gear shifter fork assemblies, initially setup with one each, 2253-33A .014" thick and one 2253-33B .007" thick, shims, we can now installed the two into the gearbox for an initial clearance measurement. Both the 2298-41B low and the 2298-41 2nd & high, shifter clutches, have a groove cut into the full diameter of them. This groove is where the actual 2247-41 shifter forks ride in. It is a good idea to lightly grease the gear shifter fork shaft. I also recommend oiling the sides of both shifter forks and both the low and 2nd & high shifter clutch grooves. We will now start the 2245-41 gear shifting fork shaft into the right side of the transmission case, into its respective case bore, via the entrance in the 2260-41 side cover. Barely start the shaft into the case. Now...take the low shifting fork assembly and position the 2247-41 shifting fork into the 2298-41B low shifter clutch groove. The 2248-36 shifter finger tit, should be facing up. While simultaneously sliding the gear shifter fork shaft, further into the case bore, and while also maneuvering , the low shifter fork assemblies bore, to align with the gear shifter fork shaft, slide the gear shifter fork shaft, through the low shifter fork assembly, until it just begins to exit the other end, of the low shifter fork assembly bore. Now let us focus of the high shifter clutch assembly. As with the low shifter fork assembly, insert the fork, of the high shifter clutch assembly, into the groove, on the 2nd & high shifter clutch. Do the same type of maneuvering, as you did on the low shifter clutch assembly, and continue sliding the gear shifter fork shaft, into and out of, the high shifter fork assembly bore. A bit more maneuvering will be needed ,as you continue to slide the gear shifter fork shaft, fully into the opposite side transmission case bore. Now we grease the tits on both shifter fingers, and install a 2248-39 gear shifting finger roller, onto each of them. Install the rollers, with the large diameter flange facing down. Coat the outside of the rollers with grease. You will note that nothing retains the gear shifter fork shaft in position. This is because the pin in the face of the 2345-41 sprocket cover, does the retaining of it. In other words...keep a close eye on the gear shifter fork shaft, that it may stay in a fully seated position, each time you install it, during the yet to be follow steps, of taking shifting clutch clearance measurements. Now we can install the gear shifter cam parts again. We must follow the same procedure we used, when we first installed them for the gear shifter cam endplay measurement. But.....there are additional maneuvers to accomplish, which are added to those earlier, gear shifter cam parts assembly procedures. As with the earlier gear shifter cam installation, the open end of the gear shifter cam, will enter the transmission case first. But....our focus will now turn to the shift pattern grooves, which are cut into the body, of the gear shifter cam. Both grooves must align with each respective shifter finger roller, as we lower the gear shifter cam, into the transmission case. Another note....Some 2248-36 shifter fingers have a small hole drilled into the upper end of the tit. My particular shifter fingers do not. The hole, you find in some, is for a wire retainer, to hold the roller, onto the shifter finger tit. This wire retainer, I have not found a part number for. It is basically a length of wire which protrudes out a small distance from both ends of the hole, and is then bent, at both ends, in the shape of the letter C. Back to lowering the gear shifter cam into the transmission case..... Here is where the drive sprocket gear and clutch gear become tools. You may need to rotate, one or both of them, in order to release the low and 2nd & high shifter clutches from an engaged gear, so you can slide the two of them, and their respective gear shifter fork assembly, along the mainshaft, into position, with the shifting pattern grooves ,of the gear shifter cam body. Once you obtain mutual positions with these components, you can lower the gear shifter cam into the transmission case, and follow earlier gear shifter cam installation procedures, of aligning the gear shifter cam gears beveled gear tooth, to the shifter levers number 3 gear tooth. Make certain the gear shfiter cam shaft is fully seated in all the way. Next three photographs represent this whole paragraph.

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Pa

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Post Tue Mar 31, 2009 3:23 pm

Re: WLA Trans In Progress

Well....ran into another, but yet minor glitch. After reading over Bruce Palmers "How To Restore Your Military Harley Davidson", I see I have installed the wrong finish 047 transmission side cover screws. I installed nos parkerized finished screws. Bruce calls for cad plated screws for early type III, 42 WLA, transmission side cover screws. I have since replaced the parkerized finished screws with the correct cad plated ones. I'll post a pic of it soon. As I said in the beginning of this early type III, 42 WLA ,transmission build, I was going to get this correct. Besides....what if Bruce were to see it ! :mrgreen: Actually, I hope to have Bruce score this WLA for me, once it is all completed. :wink: Pa
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Pa

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Post Wed Apr 01, 2009 7:56 am

Re: WLA Trans In Progress

Cad side cover srews have now replaced the parkerized screws, I previously had in it. Installed the 2086-41 starter crank spring stud also. Pa

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Jackie

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Post Wed Apr 01, 2009 8:50 am

Re: WLA Trans In Progress

Does anybody know the correct clearance between shifting fork shaft and side cover?
I have 0.011 (0,3 mm) of clearance on my patrs - both NOS.
Thanks in advance!
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ohio-rider

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Post Wed Apr 01, 2009 8:51 am

Re: WLA Trans In Progress

Glad to see things going nice and smooth for ya Pa. Also glad you’ve abandoned the idea about putting in a drain plug. That just didn’t seem right to me for this one. Has this project been relaxing or a hair puller?
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FlatHeadSix

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Post Wed Apr 01, 2009 9:19 am

Re: WLA Trans In Progress

Pa
I think the .011 clearance is good, that's why the leather washer (seal?) is in there, make sure the leather fits tightly on the shaft and the spring pushes it evenly against the case.

mike
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Pa

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Post Wed Apr 01, 2009 12:19 pm

Re: WLA Trans In Progress

Jackie wrote:Does anybody know the correct clearance between shifting fork shaft and side cover?
I have 0.011 (0,3 mm) of clearance on my patrs - both NOS.
Thanks in advance!


Did you get that measurement from depth micing off of the sprocket cover shifter shaft dowel head, and micing down from the gearbox sprocket cover face to the end of the seated shifter shaft ? I wouldn't be concerned with some in and out floating on the shidter shaft. There is plenty of journal length on the small end of the shifter shaft. The main use of the dowel in the sprocket cover, is just to keep the shifter shaft in the gearbox bores. Pa
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Pa

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Post Wed Apr 01, 2009 12:22 pm

Re: WLA Trans In Progress

ohio-rider wrote:Glad to see things going nice and smooth for ya Pa. Also glad you’ve abandoned the idea about putting in a drain plug. That just didn’t seem right to me for this one. Has this project been relaxing or a hair puller?


Don't worry. The drain stud idea is for my bobbers transmission Steve. This trans has to be as close as I can can get to originality. :wink:

At times it has been a hair puller but most of the build has gone pretty well. Pa
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Pa

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Post Wed Apr 01, 2009 12:27 pm

Re: WLA Trans In Progress

FlatHeadSix wrote:Pa
I think the .011 clearance is good, that's why the leather washer (seal?) is in there, make sure the leather fits tightly on the shaft and the spring pushes it evenly against the case.

mike


He was refering to the shifter fork shaft Mike. And I definately agree, with the leather washer and spring tension, you spoke of, on the gear shifter lever shaft. The gear teeth on the shifter cam, are more than long enough, for the shifter lever gear to travel in and out. Pa
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Pa

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Post Wed Apr 01, 2009 2:34 pm

Re: WLA Trans In Progress

Image

Image

Above top photo is of the shifter cam plunger parts, consisting of, and installed in the following order, into the gearbox, 2251-36 ball, 2251-36A spring, and 2251-36B cap. Above bottom photo is these parts installed, into the gearbox, after reinstalling the gear shifter cam. Don't punch mark the cap in. Once installed in the motorcycle, final shifting tension will determine when to punch mark it. We will use these parts to hold the 2243-41 gear shifting cam, in the neutral shift position, once we have reinstalled the gear shifting cam into the gearbox. We will remove and reinstall, these shifter cam plunger ball components, each time we need to remove and reinstall, the gear shifting cam, during the low and 2nd & high shifter clutch clearance adjusting procedure. When installing the shifter cam plunger ball components, add tension to the 2251-36A spring, with the 2251-36B cap, only enough to keep the gear shifter cam in the neutral position. You can determine, whether the gear shifter cam will stay in the neutral position, by rocking the gear shifter cam, on the gear shifter cam shaft, in both directions, until you feel strong enough resistance, for the 2251-36 plunger ball, to hold the gear shifter cam in the neutral position. The 2251-36 ball will seat into the neutral pocket, on the exterior edge of the circumference, of the gear shifter cam. You will know you have the transmission in the neutral position because the gear shifter lever shaft, will be in an almost vertical position, and you be able to rotate the drive sprocket gear, without the clutch gear turning with it. Rotating the clutch gear will not turn the drive sprocket gear either.

Image

Next..... we will measure the clearances, we presently have on our low and 2nd & high shifter clutches.
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Pa

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Post Wed Apr 01, 2009 7:06 pm

Re: WLA Trans In Progress

A Tech Intermission Here...........Before I forget.....I used an NOS OEM gasket on the side cover and will be using an NOS OEM top cover gasket on it as well. Using these old stock gaskets, means you will need to give them special attention, before they are used. The NOS OEM gaskets are pretty dried up when you remove them from the packaging. In this dried up condition, they have shrunk, and will not line up to all of the surface you will be placing them on. To restore them to size, they need to be soaked in water. I use one of the Ole Ladies pie pans for my soaking vessel. It usually only takes about 20 minutes before they become usable again. They problem with using the side cover NOS OEM gaskets is, you have to remove the side cover so many times during a build. The gasket drys up again each time. So....each time I remove the side cover, I toss the gasket back into the pie pan filled with water. If you are rebuilding a transmission as strickly a runner, and points do have a bearing on your build, use new gaskets. One more thing..............Don't use any sealers on the side cover gasket !! The sealers will change your mainshaft endplay ! Pa
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