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Help needed, stumped

Moderators: Curt!, Pa

Post Fri Jun 27, 2008 7:49 pm

Posts: 113
Need some opinions real quick. I have a bike a customer brought in today. It's a 2000 Titan with 113" motor. The ring gear on the clutch basket is bad,and I have a replacement. The clutch was no problem to disassemble, but the nut that holds the compensating sprocket on the motor WILL NOT BUDGE.
I put the bike in first gear, straped the rear FAT tire to my bike lift and tried a 1 1/2" socket and large rachet. No movement. Next a 1/2 impact, no movement. Then a bit of local heat to the nut and teh impact (both air and electric), still no movement. Have tried both directions for a couple of hours to no avail.
Does any one have any options to try, short of destructive means?

Post Sat Jun 28, 2008 4:35 pm

Posts: 604
Location: Largo, Fl

Put a bar between the motor sprocket and the clutch sprocket, then use a little more heat and a longer breaker bar and I bet it will come off.

Post Sat Jun 28, 2008 4:38 pm
Pa Site Admin

Posts: 5541
Location: Ohio USA

Try an impact. Work it both ways also. Don't push hard on the socket. Know the thread direction before you start. Pa

Post Sat Jun 28, 2008 5:55 pm

Posts: 2676
Location: Los Angeles, CA
You need a more powerful impact wrench.

Post Sun Sep 07, 2008 9:52 pm

Posts: 646
Location: Detroit
I wonder if they used green loc-tite on it--LOL.

Seriously, Bro', one time while working on a 76 E-Glide I had to jam a 2x4 between the primary chain and the front sprocket and then use a steel fence pole about 5 feet long on the end of my wrench for leverage with two bro's holding the bike. It came off. I agree that you should try to examine the threads but if you have a compensator on there that won't be possible. I have never seen a motor sprocket nut that was left hand threaded.
New Knuckleheads? Thank, you, Jesus!!

Post Wed Sep 10, 2008 7:06 am

Posts: 233
Location: Richmond Va
I am wondering the result, here. 8) I had to use a long cheater on a breaker bar & a little heat, too.

Have to admit, I chewed up an oak block in the process. It was quite a few years ago, when I first got my shovel.


Post Fri Oct 31, 2008 10:46 am

Posts: 8
Location: Will County, IL
Getting in here late, but I found this tip on another board, worked really well for me on a stubborn compensator:

OK, this is a good one for the 'biker basics'. Lots of folks have asked how to remove their primary particular how to get that big ol' nasty compensator nut off. It's easy...all it takes is a special tool that you can build for less than $5. YOU WILL LOVE IT!!

Its called a "jam bar" and it locks the front sprocket to the rear clutch shell sprocket, so you can use a breaker bar and socket to remove the compensator nut (or install it!!) without the dang thing trying to turn the whole motor.

You can make one out of a length of 1 1/2" wide x 1/4" thick flat stock...just cut a length about 7 5/8" long for a five speed model bike or about 8 1/2" long for you four speed kinda' folks...depending upon your model of bike you may have to adjust the length a little bit, but you get the drift. With a stock compensator sprocket you'll have to grind a little off the side of one end, so it's only about 1 1/4" wide, to clear the edge of the compensator cover. Jam bars will also work on primary belt drive pulleys, but you'll have to grind the edges off the end a little to fit into the teeth.

The trick is wedge the bar in between the motor sprocket and clutch shell sprocket, so it locks 'em in place when ya' turn the nut. First, DISCONNECT THE BATTERY GROUND CABLE!! Then, you set one end between the teeth at about 4 o'clock on the motor sprocket and the other end at about 10 o'clock on the clutch shell sprocket (ya' may have to take the primary chain adjuster fully loose from the inner primary to get enough room). Then, twist that nut right off (use a breaker bar and hold the socket tight to the nut, it ain't got much to grip on) the front sprocket tries to turn with the socket, it'll push on the jam bar and lock it into the clutch shell teeth, which are also turning into that end of the jam bar...the harder you twist on the socket, the tighter it'll lock up!! To install the nut, install the locking bar in the opposite direction, with one end at the motor sprocket at the 2 o'clock position and the other at the clutch shell at 8 o'clock.

I try to never use an impact on the compensator...there is some belief that the hammering of an impact can affect the flywheel truing....while I doubt that will ever happen with a typical impact, there is some concern the impact may loosen or damage alternator rotor magnets on later engines...and with a jam bar you won't need an impact. If you can't break it loose with a breaker bar, heat the nut up with a propane torch and go'll

Post Tue Jan 13, 2009 10:08 pm

Posts: 2399
Location: atascadero cal usa
I try to never use an impact on the compensator...there is some belief that the hammering of an impact can affect the flywheel truing....while I doubt that will ever happen with a typical impact, there is some concern the impact may loosen or damage alternator rotor magnets on later engines...


i can not beleive some of you guys that have been around bikes longer then most would even think about using a impact unless the flywheels are coming apart anyway for a rebuild
have any of you done that and rode the bike afterward to find the mirrors falling off and your feet wont stay on the boards cause it vibrates so bad you cant hold onto the bars even ???????
just think about it
how much force is used to true a set of flywheels???
how much force do you think that impact is putting out?
my weak 1/2" impact puts out 500 ft lbs of torque
dont you really in your right minds think that mite alter the trueness of a freakin 1" taper???
ok the trick is a blocking bar mentioned earlier plenty of heat not from your everyday propane torch then a long breaker bar with a big peice of pipe on it
get the damn nut red hot if you have to
you can replace it if its ruined when your done but try tearing a whole motor apart cause of one stupid lets use the biggest impact we can find mistake
yes its not ideal but its better then impulsing 500+ lbs on the tapers
sorry but impacts are not made for anything but to speed
things up or for breaking shit

Post Sun Feb 22, 2009 8:29 am

Posts: 3007
Location: Central Illinois, USA
I rebuilt a Chubble once for a fellow who thought the 400 ft/lb torque spec applied to the sprocket nut instead of the sprocket shaft nut, which spun off and dropped between the flywheels.

A tool is only as good as the operator.


Post Fri Mar 20, 2009 11:01 pm

Posts: 113
Location: Plattsburgh, NY, USA

I had two customers shift the flywheels in Evo HD crate motors I sold them using impact guns to tighten compensator nuts. I also had a customer break THREE 1987 Evo inner clutch hubs overtorqueing tranny mainshaft nuts with an impact gun. [1936-1989 big twin HD's all used tapered mainshafts] The torque spec is 55-60 lbs andhe overshot it 3 times!! PUT the impact guns away!!

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