Been thinking about your question about how much more oil is needed. (As many of you know, it always gets dangerous when I finally start thinking!!)
Here's what we know:
Jim, me, and many others have burnt up BTSV's with the stock oil system. (My first time was in '74, 3k miles from home
The symptom is burnt piston/scoring of cylinder on valve side
My adaptation of the sporty pump with lots of oil shot at the bottom side of the piston looks to be working out so far. Only 1500 miles on first test engine, 500 on the second. Neither show the hot spot on piston as yet.
Also, Paul Friebus races BTSV's, FAST, and he doesn't burn up engines either, at least he says he doesn't. ( and I believe him)
HE also modifies the stock oil system and is spraying the underside of the pistons with oil. This I was told second hand however, not by Paul.
He makes changes to the supply pump, but I don't know what they are. It just looks stock on the outside, is all I know.
He also changes the shape of the combustion chamber, which I suspect is also an important part of his success, power wise and engine longevity wise.
My guess is that the shape of the stock heads and block create a hot spot directly over the piston at the edge closest to the valves. It seems to be where most of the combustion, or the hottest part of the burn, occurs. This I deduct from the coloration of deposits on piston, block and head.
So, I think Paul changes the shape of the combustion chamber and gets more power and changes or eliminates the hot spot at a vulnerable area. With whatever changes he makes to the oil system, which I'm sure must include increased flow from the supply pump, he keeps the engine cool enough to do the things he does!
As for me, as I'm not changing the shape of the combustion chamber, I have to compensate with lots of oil aimed at the bottom of the piston, to keep the piston cool enough to not destruct.
So, back to the original question, how much oil does the BTSV need?
Answer; It's going to depend on how you've built your engine.
I may be going for overkill with the sporty pump, when less would do the job.
Perhaps what Jim's come up with is going to get the job done also.
I'd certainly like to hear from Paul his thoughts on all this, but suspect as he gets people to pay for what he does, he's not at liberty to freely discuss the matter.
One note on the sporty pump conversion. All the oil from the pump goes into the flywheel cavity. Either from the full flow 3 hole crankpin, or via the piston squirters. As configured on my motors, there is no bypass. The passage is blocked off. This is how the pump was designed to function on the Sportster as well.
I certainly would like to hear others point of view on all this, as most of this is speculation, not observation.
By the way, I don't know that any of this applies to the 45, just don't have the experience to speak about it.