VT (aka Plumber), I’ve been sending mine (forks) to Bill's (Pennsylvania) for the last twenty-five years. He’s got the right tools and experience to get the job done the right way the first time around. That (Kent-Moore) puller head is more precise than you can believe. The catch on the end has to be .064 on the money to grab these things (lower bushings) and that’s no guarantee. I’ve done it in the past scoring it with a saws all blade tack welded to something but it wasn’t worth the time wasted, but I can turn ya on to some helpful tips when it comes to the glide front end.
The bushing to tube relationship is important. With out that seal the hydraulics don’t work. I’ve seen a lot of people on the forums complaining about their front end banging back. Some buddies of mine back in the eighties did some experimenting. Our conclusion was simple. Original tubes are hard chrome plated. If you look at one closely you will see what looks like a cross-hatch pattern similar to a newly rebuilt engine cylinder. This forms a seal to the bushing. Every front end that banged back we found had show chrome tubes. That smooth finish leaves no seal. Forking by Frank can still give you the good tubes. I also found that I don’t like the way the factory reamer finishes the job. I prefer to have the bushings pulled and inserted by some one else but that’s were it ends. I prefer using a dingle-berry hone with honing fluid. You can get one from McMaster-Carr for twenty bucks. Using this hone also leaves a cross-hatch on the bushing surface.
Well that’s it for today’s science project. Bob and Katie Dog.
With Correct Tubes from:
Correct Bushing Installation from: