I can move the front and rear headers with my hand. Nothing is "bound" between the headers or the flat-pipe or the "Y" hubs and spigots. It feels custom installed.
Let's go visit every area of junction:
The front header has a 1/32 of margin around the entire top of the hub. The hub is not bound to the spigot. If I wanted to pull the header down, I would find 1/16" of free play. You can see where I ground too much material off at the top of an old slot we filled. I'm going to cut (4) 0.060" squeeze-slots, 1/2" long, in the hub with that grit-blade. Re-cutting the fill welds in the two slots we filled and then two more in new metal.
The front header spigot fully seats in the flat-pipe hub. There is plenty of clearance between the flat-pipe and the crankcase.
The rear header has at least a 1/32" margin around the entire perimeter of the hub. If I wanted to move the pipe or pull it away from the head a 1/16 of an inch, that would be possible. The rear header is not bound-up. (4) squeeze slots will be cut, 1/2" long.
This is the flat-pipe bracket we re-positioned. I needed to elongate the hole a little, but we were close. This bracket position is important. It is an alignment position anchor. You may need to order this piece in two parts, un-chromed, mark your own custom bracket position and TiG weld to suit. You might be able to have the flat-pipe chromed later at Dennis Corso.
This turned out to be one of two rub areas. The backside of the brake arm makes contact with the flat-pipe during part of the swing action. I'll probably need to grind off a little material to cure the problem.
We closed the cuts in the pipe with a clamp, tacked the #2 and #3 cuts then released the clamp. Stett filled cuts #2 and #3.
Cuts #1 and #4 remained open, with no closure. He filled those. (Where would we be without the dedicated craftsmen with the tools, know how and mechanical discipline necessary to do the job right the first time ) http://stettsironhorseranch.com/ Minimum, we'd be lost.
The transmission is positioned fully forward because I needed to be sure the trans. didn't strike the rear header. With the transmission positioned fully back, there is 5/32 of air gap between the top of the pipe and the bottom of the kick cover.
The arch of the "Y" pipe seats the rear header almost completely.
This is the other rub area. The muffler makes contact with the frame rail. I've seen rectangular indents in some of the pipes. I think I'll use a piece of rectangle brass stock and smack the muffler in a calculated spot to provide relief from this malady. Note: The only way I'm going to make the tool box fit, is to custom make some "reach" brackets. This bracket is nowhere near correct placement.
And I needed a spacer to keep the muffler and "Y" pipe in straight alignment. I'm using the bottom-most hole in the bracket, which leaves the top hole hanging out. I may cut off the top part of the tab and round it off.
You may not have the same problems I did, but we kicked this cantankerous exhaust system's silly ass.