Sounds like you cured any fitment problems with the U series.
cut off at 10 1/2" is not enough bend away from the frame to allow the front of the muffler to clear the lower frame rail
That's what I remember from my first attempt, but I have to check it out again to be sure. There is the fact
that the front
muffler clamp/hanger has to be lined-up with that 3/8 fastener hole in the bottom of the seat post plate too. At least, in this situation I can fit the '58-64 "Y" and wonder about it and maybe
send it back if it doesn't work, along with my welded flat-pipe and this modified "Y" to be stripped and re-chromed. I'll take some pics to illustrate how the '58-64 looks, when it gets here next week.
With both "Y" pipes on hand, I'm going to see which one of them I will heat to bend. Either the 10-1/2 "Y" pipe is going to have some kick removed
or the '58-64 "Y" is going to be heated, bent and cut-off to whatever length will make it work. Somethings going to get heated and bent and I would predict that it's going to be the kicked "Y"
pipe that gets the treatment. I have a sacrificial rear header Kick-Start, Inc. sent me. I'll put the kicked "Y" pipe in a soft-jawed vise (or better
) and place the hub of the sacrificial header in the kicked tail piece and pull it downward, as I heat the base of the kicked pipe with a "rosebud" enough to bend it. That's the loose plan, we'll see what develops.
Before the "Y" starts, I plan on heating the bottom and sides of the pipe first (heat rises), then the top of the pipe as I bend the kicked pipe downward
. It's all "eyeball" bends though. I know a couple of degrees drop at the base of the "Y"
is going to develop to an approx. 3/4"-1" drop at the rear muffler hanger. Trial and error.
With the kick reduced
, I'm going to try and get a more even seat
at the front of the "Y" spigot
into the rear hub
of the flat-pipe
. You can see from the front mark
the seat-line is angled up
a little. It would be a bit of a "leaker" left like that.
The rear mark
is where the front end of the muffler is suppose to be in order that the clamp/hanger hole will match the seat post plate's 3/8 hole.
I got hold of Dixie today and ordered their 4 piece exhaust
Good news then, bigfoot exist
I talked to Dennis and he said the 10-1/2" "Y" pipe was die-produced and can not be adjusted at the factory for less kick
. When asked if he thought the pipe might collapse if I heat and bent it, he said he's never tried it and he has no idea.
I'm assuming that my 1997 V-Twin frame is the reason for the exhaust fitment problem, and that the over-kick in the 10-1/2" "Y" is limited to my machine only.