Board index Flathead Power-Technical Questions, Answers, and Suggestions Pans Clutch helper products?

Clutch helper products?

Post Tue Aug 29, 2006 2:13 pm

Posts: 25
Location: Upstate NY
I have a '58 pan w/4 speed ratchet top trans, and I'm having the typical cluctch dragging problems. I'm thinking of using one (or two) of the following to help me out:
1)The clutch "Tamer"
2)Ram-Jett reatiner
3)Big fix long roller bearings

Any opinions on what is best in this situation?
I know I'll still have to make the standrd adjustments, I might also go with a moustrap eliminator if I can't get anything else to work

Post Tue Aug 29, 2006 2:50 pm

Posts: 646
Location: Detroit
If you have balls on your clutch hub for bearings, get rid of them and install rollers instead. Use plenty of grease.

Check to make sure your steel plates are flat, not scored, rusted, etc. Replace the bad ones. Check the ball ends on the plates.

Check to see if your clutch material/fibers are not grease soaked or otherwise sticky from burnt up clutch material on them.

Check the same fibers to see if the rivets are worn away or loose.

Check your throw out bearing and use the large one, not the late tin cup type junk with needle bearings.

Check to make sure thre is nothing obstructing your clutch arm from returning to the fully out position, or a bad cable, bellcrank, or spring in your mousetrap.

Check to make sure your clutch rods are properly adjusted, both the one inside the trans that runs through the mainshaft AND the one from the eliminator to the clutch arm above your lid.

Check to see if your throw out bearing is adjusted properly. Sometimes the back of the threaded adjuster wears badly against the clutch rod causes problems.

Your clutch plate springs might be adjusted too tight or you have the wrong springs in there.

Finally, why go to an eliminator or the rest of the aftermarket junk? Get a foot clutch and jockey shifter.
New Knuckleheads? Thank, you, Jesus!!

Post Tue Aug 29, 2006 7:44 pm
Pa Site Admin

Posts: 5843
Location: Ohio USA

Good advice !! I might add.....check for dings and flat spots on all of your pins too. Pa

Post Tue Aug 29, 2006 7:53 pm

Posts: 646
Location: Detroit
I forgot that one, Pa. I would also add check for bent pins which I refer to as the clutch hub studs.
New Knuckleheads? Thank, you, Jesus!!

Post Tue Aug 29, 2006 8:02 pm
Pa Site Admin

Posts: 5843
Location: Ohio USA

Your terminology is correct Bro. I just got a lazy tongue at times. :wink: I forgot the bent ones myself. :lol: They can be stinkers though [bent, dinged, burred]. Those plates hammer those studs constantly but many riders don't realize that hard shifting is really at fault when damage to studs is found to be the culprid. But sure is fun to bang those gears in once in a while !!! :wink: Pa

Post Wed Aug 30, 2006 7:06 am

Posts: 377
Location: madison wisconsin usa
and make sure your primary drive chain or belt is not too tight!

the stock stuff works if it is properly adjusted.


Post Sun Sep 03, 2006 4:34 pm

Posts: 1536
Location: S.Calif.

I asked JW at V-Twin recently what was good for belt support and he said he liked that York clutch assembly [for belt or chain] (18-0517) which is another hub, diaphram, retainer pressure plate, bearing, discs, bolts. He said the clutch drum runs steady and doesn't move back and forth on the hub like the OEM assembly does.
Then I asked him about the Big Fixx and he said, Oh yeah, "the one with the 52 long rollers. It's keeps the clutch running steadier than OEM too. So it's a good assembly too. I like the York, but the Big Fixx is good".

I have a Big Fixx kit (20-0229) in stock so I guess I'll use it on the rigid Pan. The directions show it as an easy fix. You get to keep all your original components except the bearing cage.

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