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Need HELP on servicar differential

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Graybeard

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Posts: 125

Joined: Thu Dec 16, 2004 1:01 am

Location: Southeast AZ

Post Sat May 13, 2006 2:09 pm

Need HELP on servicar differential

Trying to disassemble the rear end(hydraulic). Cannot get the brake shell/hub assy pulled off the tapered axle. Have a plenty strong puller setup. Have used penetrating oil. Tried heating the hub but that is dificult to do as I can only apply heat at the end of the hub because I can't even get the shell and hub separated. I am afraid to put any more stress/pull than I already have with the puller for fear of damage. What in the hell am I not doing that I should, or doing that I shouldn't?

And this is only the first one- haven't tried the other end yet.

Should I chant, cast a spell, sacrifice a small furry animal, what???????
Aries51 (AKA Graybeard)
ROB in AZ

"Get on your bad motor scooter and ride"-Sammy Hagar
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56Trike

Posts: 123

Joined: Fri Nov 07, 2003 1:01 am

Location: Reno,NV USA

Post Sat May 13, 2006 6:20 pm

Know ya pulled the nut & sleeve off. I had to put tension on the hub & leave overnight w/oil. Then hit the axle shaft with 2lb hammer and block of wood a few times before it came away from the tappered shaft. The taper had allowed condensate to rust the parts together. One axle the key was all mangled when I got to It which probably hindered the removal of the sheel.

Good luck yall get it eventually.
RJ
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Chris Haynes

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Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2000 12:01 am

Location: Los Angeles, CA

Post Sat May 13, 2006 7:05 pm

Spray Aerokroil on it and let it sit overnite.
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Pa

Site Admin

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Joined: Sun Mar 12, 2000 1:01 am

Location: Ohio USA

Post Sat May 13, 2006 10:00 pm

PB Blaster works well too. Careful with the puller though. I have heard horror stories with axle damage from using them. Pa
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Graybeard

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Posts: 125

Joined: Thu Dec 16, 2004 1:01 am

Location: Southeast AZ

Post Sun May 14, 2006 5:56 am

Thanks guys!

Let it be known that the nut and sleeve have been removed, I have been using penetrating oil (although I should probably be a bit more patient with
it), and I am trying to be careful with the puller( that's why I stopped and asked for help- I was about to be NOT careful with the puller!)

Billy- as far as staying up till midnite? I can't even stay awake till 10 PM anymore! How about maybe two this afternoon I run over a purple Barney with my shovelhead? Do you think that would be acceptable to the Gods?

I know I would enjoy it!

"I like you.., you like m.."SQUISH!!!

We'll try again today.
Aries51 (AKA Graybeard)
ROB in AZ

"Get on your bad motor scooter and ride"-Sammy Hagar
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Sideblåsern

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Joined: Tue Apr 09, 2002 12:01 am

Location: Vadsø, Norge

Post Sun May 14, 2006 5:58 am

:wink: May I offer a reindeer for the sacrifice? They are no good for eating at this time of year...!
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BREWSKI

Posts: 919

Joined: Sat Mar 27, 2004 1:01 am

Location: RENO,NV. U.S.A.

Post Thu May 18, 2006 10:21 am

The CORRECT tool for the job is a 3-jaw HUB PULLER,this is not the same as a gear puller. The hub and axle are a interference fit as much as sprocket/pinion shafts,flywheels are,would you use heat on your flywheels??????? NOT. THE 3-jaw hub puller bolts to the wheel studs and will pull the brakedrum/hub off the axle evenly. '60's CHRYSLERS,STUDEBAKERS,JEEPS used this same type of brake drum/hub arrangement on the axles. The SDC (STUDEBAKER DRIVERS CLUB) HAS VENDORS ADVERTISING SUCH A PULLER($30.00) REGULARLY BREWSKI
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Graybeard

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Posts: 125

Joined: Thu Dec 16, 2004 1:01 am

Location: Southeast AZ

Post Fri May 19, 2006 5:30 am

Thanks to all for info and advice. With a homemade puller and a little perseverance the hubs came off sucessfully and without damage.

Any recommendations on the type/brand of grease that should be used? Is there one that's better for the gears as opposed to the bearings? Synth or dino? Type?

Not trying to start a "which type of oil is best" thread but I know less about grease than I know about oil so anyones experience would be appreciated.
Aries51 (AKA Graybeard)
ROB in AZ

"Get on your bad motor scooter and ride"-Sammy Hagar
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Pa

Site Admin

Posts: 4475

Joined: Sun Mar 12, 2000 1:01 am

Location: Ohio USA

Post Fri May 19, 2006 6:31 am

Rob, I was thinking maybe a little never-seize on those tapers would be a good thing when you reassemble. Just a thin coating maybe ? Everything turns slow in there so any good grease will work. Just match the factory values of the lube. My thoughts...Pa
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44dwarf

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Joined: Mon Feb 06, 2006 1:22 pm

Location: north central Ma.

Post Fri May 19, 2006 12:17 pm

Gears need an EP additive package EP = Extream Presure.
Most Moly based greases are EP but look on the tube or tube.

44dwarf
"Smok'in the competition NOT Tobacco"
"Transplant organs, Don't bury them!"
Why dwarf? 5/8 scale race cars! http://www.dwarfcarracing.com
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BREWSKI

Posts: 919

Joined: Sat Mar 27, 2004 1:01 am

Location: RENO,NV. U.S.A.

Post Tue May 23, 2006 6:45 pm

Anyone that would put any grease or anti-seize on a taper is not playing with a full deck! You wouldn;t do that on the sprocket/pinion shaft/crankpin tapers in the flywheels in an engine,would yopu????? Tapers work on an interference fit;just like the MT on the tailstock in a lathe. Any moly lube is preferrrable,just make sure you use the same lube thru-out and continuosly. BREWSKI
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Pa

Site Admin

Posts: 4475

Joined: Sun Mar 12, 2000 1:01 am

Location: Ohio USA

Post Tue May 23, 2006 7:40 pm

This one card short of 52 deck used light never seize on many a machine tool and engine/trans tapers without any lost of fit. Of course these tapers were locked with nuts and actually driven by keys but release was nice when a tool would be in position for days and sometimes weeks with coolant and other chemicals present to permanently seize them. I don't recommend using it on none locked applications where only a drive tang and no key is present. .. Does this clarify the situation and suggestion to you ? Brewski ????????? Pa

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