Details of Frankenstein oddities

Here are some pics I took yesterday while doing some maintenance on Frankie. Had a couple of oil leaks that needed taking care of, and I needed to pull the engine to do them. Number one was the oil pump wet sumping so I did the ball thing and installed a new oil seal between chambers. also the blanking plate for the generator hole seeped so I resealed that also as it is an out of frame job also.
Here are a couple of shots of the modified oil pump. Basically plugging the original return passage and drilling out for the new one.
Try this link if you don't see pics.
http://www.freewebs.com/dicky_linn/frankiedetails.htm



Here's a shot of the camcover gasket area, showing the 2 drillings made to get oil to the big end:

This shows the mods to the Camcover. 1 hole and a little weld added to get a bigger pad for better sealing.

And here's a shot of the Sportster mainshaft and main bearing. Because I'm using Sporty stroker wheels it was no big deal to use the mainshaft.

Just thought some of you might be interested in seeing some of the actual metal, instead of just drawings. If I did it again, I'd just use an external line from the pump to the oil gallery in the camcover. This way was a bit tough to seal at first, but hasn't given any trouble.
And I did make one other change this time. I switched to black silicone seal so it won't show up so boldly in the photos!!!. (I did a final cleanup be fore ass'y, so all the bits of orange didn't stay in the engine!!)

Dr. Dick

Hum, your site's overloaded at the moment, can't see sod all...
Been before on the Liberty site, saw photos of Frankie... and also saw you don't have a gene...

You say you are wet sumping... I use to have the same problem on my KHK and all my CH Sportys because I run them in G.B without lights, it's perfectly legal, so called "day light use only", hence no dynamo, just a blank plate...

After years of trying 1) not to sump, 2) keep the oil in the engine as it was all exiting with the air via the breather tube, average run for a full horse shoe oil tank was 70 miles, I cut a dynamo rotor on the drive side, machined it to recieve another bearing (same size as KR cam bearing), fitted the lot in a thinned down/moded dynamo drive side casting, hey presto, all problems solved at once, oil slinger back in action, no sumping...

Now, this raise the question how on earth could the factory sell some bikes, 58 C and CH come to mind, with just a plate to blank the dynamo hole and no oil slinger cause I know for sure now that the oil slinger is mandatory...

Patrick

Patrick, I've never had a problem with oil from the breather, and in normal running, the oil stays where it should. It only wet sumps when it sits for a few days. However, I blocked off the breather line from oil tank to engine on Frankie, mainly because the BSA oil tank vents to atmosphere, and so I just plugged the hole in the crankcases on the engine. Don't know why it should make a difference, but that's the only thing different in the oil system.
Dr. Dick
Sorry for the overload on the pic website, I'm too cheap to buy space, guess the free one loaded up.

Here's another link for the pics, try this:
http://www.freewebs.com/dicky_linn/frankiedetails.htm

Hum,

I like it when you say "normal" running!!! Maybe I've had this problem because I don't know how to ride "normal". Used to have a KK at one stage, all original and I use to try to get more modern bikes to try to follow me, they always gave up before me... Put in in a Dyno Shoot Out one day and it showed 11 hp, did not seem to matter on the road, it could hit 90mph any time any day...

Remember as well a long run we had, me and my Cafe Racer XLCR, my friend Gordon on his Buell Cyclone, well, no contest really... I still think these unit constructions from H-D want to retain too much oil in the cases if one uses them hard... I toyed with the idea of using the 1/4 speed oil pump but haven't tried it yet...

By the way, got another friend overhere that's has a K top end WL project.. t'was already started when I arrived on these G.B. shores 20 years ago and it's not finished yet... He's still pondering on the exhaust dilemma set up. He's got a KHK cam set for it so the only way to go is the WR type tappet block I suppose...

Wanted to do one as well but the WL frame's not for me really, so I'm toying now with mating WL crankcases with pre-war french 500cc OHV cylinders (84mm bore), push rods on the open etc, 2 pipes per cyl, should look the part...

Patrick

Patrick, Frankie's definitely a fun bike to ride, and normal means I don't drop the hammer from a dead start. Other than that, She earns her keep! I'm running the KHK cams and WL blocks with no problems. I've geared it up so that it turns about 3k @ 60mph. 3.7:1 overall. Like the sound of the OHV topend, 84mm is going to be a stretch I'd think, what with stock bore being about 70mm. There were lots of Brit's that ran 70-71 bore 350's, pre-post war, often thought there should be something there, maybe JAP, ? Too many ideas, not enough time.
Dr. Dick

If the rod is long enough (not that this will be easy), the cylinder spigot can be eliminated completely and the bore size can exceed the case opening ID. Just needs a substantial "transition plate" with some recessed (countersunk allen-head?) stud pattern that fits the deck surface, adequate thickness to prevent failure, and a second stud pattern in the plate suitable for the big cylinder. As long as the skirt ends above the plate's upper surface the bore size can be anything you want. If the cylinder of choice has a spigot in the stroke + CD + skirt length (finned area not long enough to contain the work path) the plate can be longer to accomodate (all or part of) it.

Dick, at one time Hooter was looking to put a pair of BSA B-40 cylinders & heads on a 45. I have his email address at home somewheres ifs you want to try to contact him. G

yes, Panic,

these french TerroT cylinders haven't got a "bolted base" to speak of, the bolt pattern is rectangular, long base in the lenght of the bike and they are like "telescopic" studs, bottom part screws in the alloy case base, 1/2 thread approx, the top screws in the head and squeeze the cylinder in between, 10mm threads.

The cylinder base is round to start with, but the factory milled each side so it's very narrow, I would say about 95mm wide across the bike. the thinking behind that was probably that they rightly thought they needed the strenght lenghwise, not sideways...

Their rods are actually a tad shorter than WL/XL so if anything, I might have to trim the cylinders a bit...

Patrick

GB, Thanks for the offer, I've got some of that unit single stuff in the barn, still looks like a lot of work to me Appreciate the offer.
Dr.Dick

How about modifying a RL/VL case for a XL pump? I know someone that has a P/U load of RL/VL parts for sale. STROKER

Nothing fits/works/lines up. Huge amount of fabrication.