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insides of cases, polish or paint????

Moderators: Curt!, Pa

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dotman

Posts: 582

Joined: Fri Oct 01, 1999 12:01 am

Location: meridian, id. usa

Post Tue Nov 16, 1999 2:24 am

polish polish polish.... by whichever method you feel works best for you. die grinder for the initial grinding, Dremal for the finish grinding,. and after elbow griss and about 100 pounds of patients. use drum wheels and the finest grit drums you can. use lots of 3 in 1 oil or water for all cutting and polish the entire diameter except the face of the oil scrapper. or disassemble them and for a couple hundred bucks , send em to me and ill do em takes about 10 days to 2 weeks.
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Cotten

User avatar

Posts: 2676

Joined: Thu Sep 30, 1999 12:01 am

Location: Central Illinois, USA

Post Wed Nov 17, 1999 2:34 pm

I think that we all agree with Dotman that polishing removes stress-risers, allows for oil scavenging, and makes one sleep better at night. But it is sometimes impractical: Not only the cost if you hire it done, but often it opens porosities, particularly when there have been ancient weld repairs. The "professional" short-cut is to do what the factory did: coat the insides with an insulating enamel. 'Glyptal' is a unique sealer that when baked, does a superior job of it. Check out the old board for more...
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dotman

Posts: 582

Joined: Fri Oct 01, 1999 12:01 am

Location: meridian, id. usa

Post Wed Nov 17, 1999 4:34 pm

Ah yes but the professional speed racers polished everything that moved. And if your just restoring something Glyptal works just as long as 1) you degrease with a solvent better then gasoline 2) you use a baking process after coating. As to casting porosities. have not run across a set of cases to date that have more then minor surface pitting after polishing off the sand
cast marks.
However that only includes one set of 38 ul cases, the 44u set , the 48u set and a set of 47fl knuckle cases a set of 37 wl cases a set of 42 wla cases and a set of47 w cases.
So I suppose there are some that do have casting voids in them. The knuckle cases where welded between the timing hole and the main race on the number side. it did take a xtra bit of grinding to get the new material to smooth out on the surface but that was due to the heat used when it was applied which made it harder.
Ive had more problems with flywheel polishing then cases due to the good fellows who like to use 10 pound sledge hammers when trueing wheels instead of the proper brass and wedge
method. but I suppose that in a pinch any hammer and chisel will do.

All in All what ever trips your trigger, I like to polish because it.............

Looks Great even if ya dont get to see it on a daily basis
and besides that what I do for a living and of course since I do have bills to pay, yada yada yada

[This message has been edited by dotman (edited 17 November 1999).]
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Dusty-Dave

Posts: 884

Joined: Tue Oct 12, 1999 12:01 am

Location: Ojo Caliente,NM,USA

Post Thu Nov 18, 1999 2:33 am

Dotman:
I owned a 57XL that would weep through the cases in several places without Glyptol. So I've been a little leary of polishing another set. Although they were still smoother than stock after I repainted them.
Dusty
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filthy

Posts: 136

Joined: Thu Sep 30, 1999 12:01 am

Location: oxford, NC USA

Post Sun Nov 21, 1999 11:45 pm

polish, polish polish polish polish, then when you think it's just exactally right, start REALLY polishing the sonofabitch.

filthy

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