WLC Clutch Arm Pivot Bushes

How tight a fit should they be in the sprocket cover?

The original set-up on mine had been bodged, and made-up inserts fitted with shouldered pins. I've now got a replacement clutch arm and have removed the offending bushes, but I suspect that a PO has drilled the old ones out because the replacement bushes (Colony) seem loose. No visible clearace but they don't grip either, and I suspect that the original holes have been drilled deeper than stock. Unfortunately I don't have a good spare cover to compare it to.

Does anyone have a decent photo of the relevant part please?

Kev, the old bushings in the sprocket cover were loose and enlarged the holes in the sprocket cover. If your new bushings fit that close, you should be able to use a punch to rough up the i.d. of the sprocket cover to hold the bushings in place.

I've used a trick before involving knurling bushes that were slightly inscure, such as the kickstart bushes in gearbox endcovers. This involves clamping them GENTLY in a vice between two files, and tapping the ends of the files lightly with a small hammer so that the bush is rotated between the files. It's tricky to do but works well on soft metals like brass.

The risk is that you deform the bush by squeezing it too tightly, so be careful.

I've seen this in one of the Easyriders "Tech Tips" books as a short-term treatment for excessive piston skirt wear, which must do wonders for your oil consumption, although I suppose new rings with appropriate gaps would help a bit... I once saw it used as on an old Matchless or AJS which had been extensively tuned for grass-track racing sometime in the 1950s, the piston clearance was about 10 thou so I suppose it was to cut down the general rattling. The engine leaked oil like crazy so what effect the knurling had, I couldn't say.

Thank you gentlemen; I used Ralph's suggestion, since the bushes are steel not brass. Together with a coating of Loctite 641 bearing fit, seems to have done the trick.