Running without a battery ?

I'm useing a FB mag on my 45 and would like to run without a battery at all. Will a 3 brush supply a headlite and taillite without overcharging if there's no battery in the circuit ?

The 3 brush won't do the job without a battery. The battery controls the system voltage with a 3 brush setup. However, if you convert the 3 brush to a 2 brush, and use a voltage regulator, then there's no problem. If you already have the 3 brush, I'd suggest throwing in a set of 12 volt 65A fields, remove the 3rd brush, add your favorite 12 volt regulator, and you're set. You might want to do a search here for more info on the 12 volt conversion. It should run a halogen headlight no problem.
DD

I've never really understood why running without a battery is such a common conversion - the weight loss is trivial and it much improves the overall functioning of the system by regulating the voltage and providing full current at the points when starting

interesting front wheel, by the way - Honda?

running a mag. i'm useing an under seat oil tank and theres no handy place for a battery. in fact i doubt if i'll ever ride this bike at night, just want something to show the police. the front wheel is a 1970 xs1 yamaha

The 3 brush won't do the job without a battery. The battery controls the system voltage with a 3 brush setup. However, if you convert the 3 brush to a 2 brush, and use a voltage regulator, then there's no problem. If you already have the 3 brush, I'd suggest throwing in a set of 12 volt 65A fields, remove the 3rd brush, add your favorite 12 volt regulator, and you're set. You might want to do a search here for more info on the 12 volt conversion. It should run a halogen headlight no problem.
DD

how about a 2 brush 6v ? panhead maybe ? i'm useing some old 6v lighting i'd rather not convert.

NIce bike and shop.

More info about it? Other photos?

George

NIce bike and shop.

More info about it? Other photos?

George

thanks. i'm retired and that's just my hobby shop. it's a jumbled up mess with project bikes scattered all over it but i like it.
here's a thread on another forum that i'm using to cover the build.
http://www.jockeyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=75646

Nice bike's and shop ya got there.

Don't mind me, I have a thing for 12V 32E's. Sure, 6V is o.k, depending on the year of your cases and the model generator, you may have to do the 1/4-24 to 5/16 thread conversion. However, most 6V regulators are bulkier than the 12volt ones, which might be important to you. Nice use of Norton parts, the front brake is supposed to be good unit. I believe there were TLS conversions for that, if you want more stopping power. And it's pretty much agreed the Norton box is the best of the Brit boxes.
DD

Running a similar set up,used a 2 brush 12 volt sportster generator (#299750-65A),a 1959-81 XL,2 brush 14 tooth gear drive,and a 3 wire solid state Accel voltage regulator.The magneto is wired on its own circuit separate from everything else,no key,no hidden wires in the frame that you can't get to or find in the middle of the night, just a circuit board attached on the rear diagonal support for easy accessibility .The circuit board was used to also enable someone to detach and disconnect the rear tail light or any other wires as needed for racing conditions and then be able to hook everything back up to be street legal.Pretty much like the old sportsters that ran magnetos only.Hope this helps someone out there.



http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k309/ ... CF0481.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k309/ ... CF0480.jpg

Very nice. Looking forward to checking out more details via your link.

Norton/AMC boxes are the preferred choice for vintage racers of various descriptions, the clutch plates can be interchanged for Jawa speedway ones for racing but for road use, it's not really beneficial