OK....Here we go...at least, this is the beginning of where I left off. I had already replaced both 2172-26 tripper bolts, 2173-41 tripper bolt nuts, 2242-38C shifter shaft lrg. bushing, 2242-38B shifter shaft sm. bushing, and 2312-26 left side countershaft bushing. I had also completed all the previously installed bushings', reaming and fitting. I had also made sure the 2245-41 gear shifting fork shaft, 2244-41 gear shifting cam shaft, 2242-40 gear shifter lever shaft, and 2300-41 countershaft, all fit nicely into their respective positions. I had also miced out the bore in the case for the 2518-41 clutch bearing race. This is a critical are to be concerned with. I have seen, many times, this bore to be egg shaped, or to tight or to large for the interference fit of a new race. .0005" to .0015" interference is all that is need. Any tighter and the new 2518-41 clutch bearing race may shrink in size, after installation, into the case. I ran taps through all tapped holes, to enable easy assembly along the way. Along with all of this work, I dressed all the gasket surfaces, to insure there were no burrs or obstructions. Gasket surfaces are not the only areas to be concerned with. The area where the 2299-41 second gear retaining bracket seats needs attention as well. Not to mention the surfaces the 2518-41 clutch gear race seats against. Do the same to all areas, where you replace a bushing, etc..
I have since corrected my oversight of micing the nos 2518-41 clutch gear bearing race. I've re ground the race I.D. to minimum tolerances of .0006" clearance, using a factory spec size journal 2513-41 clutch gear, along with standard size 2289-36 roller bearings of .1250". In this particular trans build, my clutch gear bearing race to case bore, interference fit, is .0007". I am very pleased with this fit. The squeeze on the race will not shrink my re ground race I.D. size. As I suspected, after race installation, size held perfectly.
After I re ground the cluster gear race, I cleaned the case thoroughly with hot soapy water and brushes, then rinsed the same way. I then placed the clutch gear race in the freezer so it would shrink down the diameter a bit. Every little bit helps when looking for an easy installation. I then setup a couple of parallels to suspend the case, high enough above the length of the protruding clutch gear race during installation. I used two 1" square high speed tool bits as my parallels. I laid protect strips of paper over the parallels as well. Next I placed my trans case on a cookie sheet and closed it up in the Ole ladies oven. Do not preheat the oven ! You want the case to heat with the oven. With oven set at 285 degrees F, I allowed the case to cook for 5 minutes extra, after preset oven temperature was acquired. Snatching up a pair of the Ole Ladies pot holders, I removed the case form the oven, placed it onto my make shift installation setup, removed the clutch gear race from the freezer, steadily placed the race into position over the case bore opening, keeping it as close to center as possible, and let her drop. The race dropped into the bore nicely. I heard the sound of it bottoming out on the machined in case race lip. I then placed my make shift weight on top of the race. I do this for insurance purposes. The weight keeps the race from walking up and out any, while everything cools down.
Note the pilot on the end of my weight. It is turned to miss the clutch gear thrust bearing race cage /ball assembly path, yet it delivers good pressure around the clutch gear outer race diameter.
After a couple of hours of cooling the case off to room temperature, I re miced the clutch gear race. All was good. Now I was ready to assemble the clutch gear to the race. Since I do not have the 2512-41 clutch gear oil seal installed already, I will explain that part when I get to it. I prefer to have it removed when fitting the clutch gear to the race anyway. The clutch gear will turn more easily without it installed. It is a little tricky keeping the clutch gear in the race, while installing the rollers though. I do this by installing the 2522-41 clutch gear thrust bearing race and the 2521-41 clutch gear thrust bearing cage/ball assembly, onto the clutch gear. Install the 2521-41 clutch gear thrust bearing cage/ball assembly, with the open end of the cage, facing the clutch gear. Next I installed the assembly into the case race via the inside out. Using one hand to create slight pressure on the assembly, in order to keep the assembly seated against the inner face of the clutch gear race [ this also helps center the assembly to the clutch gear race ] I rolled the trans case over for the roller installation. This gets on the nerves a bit. I use tweezers to install each roller, one at a time. Since I knew my measurements were correct, I knew all 40 rollers would go in. And they did. Assembly to the race and rollers showed free movement and no noticeable side play. YES !!!! Now it was time to disassemble these parts for lubing. I prefer to dry fit initially. Lube will prevent a good feel while fitting. I now install 2299-39 second gear retainer bracket, 2299-33A retainer bracket bolt washer, and 1123-29 retainer bracket bolts.
I tighten them down until they bottom first. I then start tightening them down, one at a time, from one bolt head to the other, until I feel they are really good and snug. I've no value for this tightening procedure. Just don't strip them out ! Once I feel I have them good and snug, I check to see if the retainer bolt lock washer tabs align with the flats on the sides of the bolt heads. If they do not, I tighten them a bit more, just until the first bolt head flat, aligns with the closest lock washer tab.
Now I bend the aligned lock washers tabs. I like to place them snug against the bolt head flats.
Now I'll reassembly the clutch gear components again. But first I lightly coat them in grease. I use white lithium grease for this. It is thinner and spreads thinner than standard bearing grease types. It will also blend into [ mix with ] the motor oil I will use, once assembly is completed. The grease will protect the components prior to first use as well. I coat the clutch gear roller bearing journal, clutch gear thrust bearing race face where the rollers will ride against, clutch gear race I.D., clutch gear thrust bearing ball pocket, clutch gear thrust bearing race ball pocket, clutch gear thrust bearing race cage/ball assembly,. then I reassemble them to the case. Next I coat the 2520-41 clutch gear roller bearing thrust washer and install it. Then I coat the 2520-41A clutch gear roller bearing thrust washer retainer washer and install.
Below pic shows first clutch gear assembly, before second gear retainer bracket is installed and lube is used.
This will end this part of the build for now. The next step will be to install the 2512-41 clutch gear oil seal. I'll show this installation using the correct tool used for this. I could not find my oil seals so I need to look for them before I can go any farther along with the build assembly. I'll do some other things related to the build but will not post them until I get the seal installed.
Thu Mar 12, 2009 10:06 pm 
Even after the many 45 trannies I have refurbished, I forget more than I learned anymore ! 
In the long run. maybe..... this topic will actually help somebody out. To update everyone interested, I have alread knocked the undersized clutch gear race out, for re grind. No pics on this...I screwed up again. I will take pics of the race getting installed, after grinding though. That will be after baking a tranny cake at, at just less than 300 degree F.. We'll do our best to instruct that that point on. Any suggestions on instruction material or educational reference, that should be included, before we get to the next step ? One note though....this tranny is to be built as an early 42wla model trans. There will be no olive drab paint on the case, as the later 42wla's. No olive drab top cover either. The early was plated. Given all the variances in the model 42wla's, type I through type 7, this ought to be fun. 
