the bearing # is a 629 rs i think the rs stands for sealed but you need to remove the rubbers seals
you remove the shafts from your cams and resize the ends to fit the id of the bearing on your lathe very slow speed the shafts are hard sob's
you machine the holes in the case and cover to fit the bearings with a very light press on the case side you have to leave a ledge in the back of the hole about 80-100 thou for a plug thats needed behind the bearing you'll have to make the plugs out of some brass once you get going on your project its all pretty self explainitory and really not that high tech of a modification since your just using all the same holes the only thing your doing is fitting the bearings to the holes and to the cams do the cover last so once you get the cams set in the case all at the same depth then with a straight edge and a depth gauge you determine how deep to cut the pockets for your bearing into the cover it may sound complex but its really not i honestly dont think the gain is worth the task unless you have all the other mods and race goody's to go along with it your not going to gain that much from this one simple modification you would be more ahead of the game to loose 10 lbs of the beer gut [not that any of us have on so to speak ]or get the excess oil out of the bottom of the case thats dragging on the flywheels in my opinion but thats just my opinion too
The ICE-conversion seem to use needle bearings. Is this the XL-bearings? They have the same nominal diameters as the Bronze bushes. I started to convert my U 74" to XL-bearings some years ago. But I reconsidered when I discovered that the shaft on the U-cams where smaller than the XL-cams. Not by much, as I remember 0.04-0.05mm. I have Andrews cams and they where compered with OEM XL-cams. Is it supposed to be like this or is my U-cams a bit off?
yes thats the bearing thats used in wr's as far as the u verses xl cam question i'd have to go dig out some parts to measure them to answer that i'm sure if i hadn't pissed panic of he has that info in his piles of papers sorry mines in milk crates AND BIKES of course
Sorry folks, was on holiday. Ok the article was actually a grey beard's shop notes. I was in a buddys Dads garage having a brew, talking bikes while he worked on his bike when I said about hearing of this conversion. He said his Dad might know. He went in and asked. His Dad came out had a beer with us and I mentioned it again and he went to his tool box and pulled out a note book, flipped to a page and handed it to me. It had a couple sketch's and a few notes. First note, underlined was "No rear exhaust". First sketch was marked "Block" and showed bearing in hole and arrow to crank side and note "peen over". Second sketch was marked "Cover". It showed a bearing in hole, a pipe behind bearing, with arrow to it.. "Undersize" It showed a washer next to bearing, arrow to washer marked "Brass". That's all I have. I asked what bearings and his answer was "measure it up, cant give ya everything" I asked a couple of times as we sat around and he wouldnt say. As he took last beer and went back inside he said "think sporty". I will try and get more out of him. If this guy says it can be done, it can. I am 48 and since we where kids there was always a harley in buddys dads garage.
the ball bearing in the wr for the cams are 39K it is not easy to convert the cases and cam cover to balls. i have done a couple needle conversions on 45's and it easily do-able. years ago i bought papers from KNS cycle (now victory ?) it details the process. i also built a couple of 45 magnums with their books...but that's another story... barry
Once the bearings are in you take a prick punch and punch the aluminum around the bearing to stake it in place. The bearings are also a slight hand press fit on the shafts. Assembling one of these takes lots of hand fitting of the individual parts. Have patience, do it right. Use crocus paper or very fine emery to achieve your fit.