Pretty much anything not covered by the topics above. Short lived production bikes or vehicles, Electrical, Tires, Paint, Brakes, etc. Use this for tech questions, and "Shoot the Bull" for general conversation, no tech.
If you take a close look at the wires you should see a stripe (usually yellow) on one of them. If there isn't a stripe then there is a rib sticking up a bit. This would be the neutral. I'm unclear about whether the bulk of this line you are testing is still buried. If it is, you could have a corrupted line and a low level short that would give you continuity. I've had gophers eat into my line a couple times. Really makes the meter spin until it burns through.
What you have is a 120/240 volt (nominal), single phase feeder, consisting of two hots and a common (neutral). You should read 240 volts between the two phase conductors (hots) and 120 volts between each of the phase conductors and the neutral. The actual reading should be slightly higher.
When you read 240 volts between any two of the conductors, mark one "A" and the other "B". Wrap white tape around the third conductor to identify it as the neutral.
The conductors must be fed from (protected by) a circuit breaker in your house panel. You can add another single phase panel or load center in your garage and utilize both 120 volt and 240 volt (single phase) power.
The conductors should be marked with the size, ie. "6 AWG". If you let me know the size, I can tell you the ampacity of them.
i might be able to help. i have been a lineman at a midwest utility for 19 years.
the wires going to your neighbor's shed are of no use.
the wires from your house can be used.
first, you have to find the other end of them and describe what you have. is it a fuse panel? a breaker box?
the size of whatever is feeding them will dictate what you can do with them.
can you give a rough estimate of the size of the conductors? sometimes it is printed on the side. it should say something like #4 a.w.g or 1/0 or 4/0.
if there is no printed info a guess with a ruler will do (don't include the width of the insulation just the wire)
What you have is #12 gauge wire which is only rated for 25 amps, and by code cannot be fed from (protected by) any larger than a 20 amp circuit breaker or fuse.
If you want to add a sub-panel in your garage, you'll need to figure what your loads will be, then work upstream back to the panel with the correct size wire protected by the correct size 2-pole circuit breaker. Depending on how old your house panel is, you should be able to install up to a 100 amp breaker in it, then route the proper size wire to the new sub-panel.
In addition to the 2 phase conductors (hots) and the neutral, you will need to run a green grounding conductor to the sub panel.
Your welder will probably be the largest load. Example, a Millermatic 250 draws 44 amps at 230 volts. If you can get nameplate data off your machines, or even model numbers, and quantity and type of lights you'll be using, we can get it figured out. I might can help out with the materials also.
My working area is wired single phase 120v with an additional separate line for single phase 240v. Maybe 8 - 9 years ago I acquired some Delta machinery and bought a Ronk rotary phase converter to run 220v three phase so I could power those machines, one of which is a 7 1/2 hp 220v three phase radial saw. A standard 120v single phase line powers the Ronk and the other side of the Ronk makes 240v three phase juice---all day long without fail. The box and wiring cost maybe $120 or so, the Ronk cost on the order of $1100, and the electrician cost another $450 at that time. Everything has worked flawlessly ever since and I am glad I went to the trouble and expense of having it done right. Now and then when I run equipment for the first time in the spring, I might blow out one of the two 35 amp fuses which are easily replaced. The Ronk has been bulletproof and will run everything up to and under it's rated capacity just fine. You can get one in whatever size and power rating you need.
I had the same setup in my old shop Krazy Loop. It worked well with only a couple of failures here and there when I was running to many machines at the same time and decided to do some heavy welding also. Once in a while the welder would trip the main breaker while all the other machines were running.
Old Harley...Are you sure Man ?? I've seen some beefy runnin Harley BT chainsaws up in Washington state, Why not some HD 220 ? Pa
Thanks Papa Wheelie... I will. Pa
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