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Lifter block

Moderators: Curt!, Pa

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murfster

Posts: 16

Joined: Fri Mar 02, 2001 1:01 am

Location: miami, fl

Post Sun Mar 04, 2001 2:29 pm

Lifter block

On my `77 shovel,my front lifter block has
a bolt thread stripped.It`s the front
inside one.Without having to pull off the cone,drill,tap,and use a bigger bolt,any other suggestions.? The oil leaking is minimal,but is progressively increasing.How about stuffing it with copper silicone, or teflon tape on the bolt?Any thoughts.
murf
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HOOTER

Posts: 1319

Joined: Sun Feb 25, 2001 1:01 am

Location: State College, Pa.

Post Sun Mar 04, 2001 3:20 pm

Murfster First off, it would be wise to helicoil to the stock thread size rather than screwing the cases up for generations to come. Yours should be 1/4-20 tpi. Some cases have blind holes which would be easier to repair without introducing chips into the engine. But you would still have to remove the tappet block anyway. If you can wait til rebuild time, go for the silicone, just really clean every thing well with carb cleaner first.
HOOT
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murfster

Posts: 16

Joined: Fri Mar 02, 2001 1:01 am

Location: miami, fl

Post Sun Mar 04, 2001 3:49 pm

Hey hoot, just for shits `n grins I switched around the block bolts and it did make a difference,I now have a tight bolt,but not super tight.At some point soon I`ll have to helicoil.If I was to helicoil,what size coil would be suitable for this bolt?.I have 1/4 20 on as u said,and I`m going to have to drill,right?.So taking off the cone to make sure no chips get in is nesscessary also,right?.Unfortunatly,rebuild time is far,far away.Now i`ve probably jinxed myself.!!!!
....murf....
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HOOTER

Posts: 1319

Joined: Sun Feb 25, 2001 1:01 am

Location: State College, Pa.

Post Sun Mar 04, 2001 6:44 pm

Murph
Ya need a 1/4-20 helicoil kit. It'll have the drill bit, tap, coils, and inserter. In tight areas I've used vise grips on the drill bit to drill, you might want to step drill it up to that size. that will make it easier to do. drills will follow the center of the hole so you don't really have much of an alignment problem. When tapping use a small wrench or adjustable, use something square beside the tap to get alignment and checkit from side and front every 1/4 turn. you don't need to take the cam cover off, just the tappet block out.If you don't have a blind hole, grease up a paper towel and stuff it in the case under the hole to catch chips and use grease on the tap, 2 turns of the tap only, remove, clean the tap and regrease, cut 2 more turns, clean and regrease til you hit bottom or finnish on an open hole. Tape off the tappet block hole before you start tappingCarb clean it and blow out with air, insert the insert one full thread below the surface and knock the tang off with a punch and make sure you find the tang so you can throw it away. Tang is magnetic so you can put a magnet under the hole to help capture it. New gasket, pushrod seals, and keep retorquing after heat soaks. A Helicoil kit is a good investment, they're around $30 and have 10 or 12 coils in it.
HOOT
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murfster

Posts: 16

Joined: Fri Mar 02, 2001 1:01 am

Location: miami, fl

Post Mon Mar 05, 2001 12:23 am

hey hoot,
cudja be a little more specific.???
thnx, murf.!!!
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HOOTER

Posts: 1319

Joined: Sun Feb 25, 2001 1:01 am

Location: State College, Pa.

Post Mon Mar 05, 2001 5:47 am

OK I'll try this one more time
1+1=2
A as in apple
B as in.........

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