Sat Dec 06, 2008 12:17 pm by krazy loop
Pa, I have not tried those exact modifications but I have rebuilt a number of Bendix carbs over the years.
The best thing you can do for any Bendix is install an adjustable main jet.
The most recurrent problem is that the float pin, the end of which seems to be made of black neopreme or some such other synthetic rubber, rots out in as little as two years. A good supply of float pins is always handy, and you can change one without removing the carb from the bike. The pin is bad when the bowl overflows, as in all over everything nonstop.
The tiny flutter valve in the bowl normally is not a problem.
Finally, now and then and no matter what you do to try to fix one, you can get a blocked passage in the carb body that refuses to unblock. I tried compressed air, soaking one for a week in MMO and then when that failed I tried soaking in brake fluid. Nothing worked and I "fixed" it by getting a new carb body. The problem appears when the engine gets difficult to start. Remove the air cleaner and you can see that the carb will not mist/draft. Since this happens when you are half way to nowhere, and I know this is not necessarily optimum but it works to get you by, close the choke and flood the carb with six accelerator shots. Kick it a time or two and it will normally cough but not start. Open the choke half way and kick again. If after a few more kicks if it won't start, hold the throttle wide open and try again. For my 80 pan I had to remove the air cleaner when this happened. When I first had the problem I thought I was having magneto problems so I went back to a battery system. That did not work and I had the same trouble. Changing the body, the one with the unblockable passage, fixed everything. Thereafter it started with two kicks at most. I did not swap back to the magneto but may this coming summer.
New Knuckleheads? Thank, you, Jesus!!
