Board index Flathead Power-Technical Questions, Answers, and Suggestions Knuckles too much oil

too much oil

Moderators: Curt!, Pa

Post Mon Oct 29, 2007 4:59 am
knucknutz - pm sent. Brent.

Post Mon Oct 29, 2007 6:15 am

Posts: 65
Location: Aberdeen, SD

Have you tried cork pushrod gaskets, sometimes the rubber ones leak. The cork seals are more forgiving and with all the aftermarket parts you do not have the fit and finish of OEM knuckle parts. You can also put 12-15 lbs. air pressure in through your timing plug and squirt soapy water to find your leak in the return system, much like checking for manifold leaks. You will have to turn the engine over so the return holes line up in the breather.
Carl

Post Sat May 03, 2008 10:12 am

Posts: 2687
Location: Los Angeles, CA
[quote="BrentCross@Bronko's"]Knucknutz: forgive me if this has been mentioned before but: S&S recommends that you use a 25tooth drive gear (26345-39) on the pump shaft and the mating gear on the pinion shaft ( 26349-54) if your set-up allows for this pinion gear. This will help over-oiling problems on a knuck when running a S&S pump. Maybe though you already have this set-up?quote]

Hey Brent,
Who did you talk to at S&S? I called them yesterday for oil information and tips on my 93" and the tech support guy didn't know anything about how to control oil in a Knuck. Is this printed S&S information?
Thanks,
Chris

Post Sun May 04, 2008 6:14 am
HI Chris:

It is absolutely in S&S printed material. I can't remember offhand where it is but I am sure if you check the instruction sheet for oil pump installation you will find it there. It is available on the S&S website. Please e-mail me if you can't find it and I will search through my notes at work.

Post Sun May 04, 2008 10:29 am

Posts: 2687
Location: Los Angeles, CA
BrentCross@Bronko's wrote:
HI Chris:

It is absolutely in S&S printed material. I can't remember offhand where it is but I am sure if you check the instruction sheet for oil pump installation you will find it there. It is available on the S&S website. Please e-mail me if you can't find it and I will search through my notes at work.


Does this combination of gearing slow down the pump to avoid gushing oil? What is the purpose of the mixing of gears?

Post Sun May 04, 2008 2:33 pm
You are correct - the different gears cause the pump to turn slower to aid with the over-oiling problem. I have them in my knuckle yet I noticed today when out for a ride that my oil pressure is still too high when hot - something I am going to have to deal with as I work out the bugs with my new ride.

Post Sun May 04, 2008 2:38 pm

Posts: 2687
Location: Los Angeles, CA
BrentCross@Bronko's wrote:
You are correct - the different gears cause the pump to turn slower to aid with the over-oiling problem. I have them in my knuckle yet I noticed today when out for a ride that my oil pressure is still too high when hot - something I am going to have to deal with as I work out the bugs with my new ride.


I spoke with Carl Olsen yesterday. He recommended plugging the oil line fittings in the timimg gear cover and heads and drilling a .060 hole for reduced oil flow to the top end.

Post Sun May 04, 2008 3:04 pm
Chris: that is also in the S&S literature (plugging the fitting and drilling a .060" hole to reduce oil flow). I didn't do that on mine (was hoping the slower gears would be all that I needed) but I think I am going to have to go this route as well. There is also the option of cutting the oil pressure spring down as well. The latter would be my last resort.

Post Sun May 04, 2008 3:53 pm

Posts: 2687
Location: Los Angeles, CA
BrentCross@Bronko's wrote:
Chris: that is also in the S&S literature (plugging the fitting and drilling a .060" hole to reduce oil flow). I didn't do that on mine (was hoping the slower gears would be all that I needed) but I think I am going to have to go this route as well. There is also the option of cutting the oil pressure spring down as well. The latter would be my last resort.



I have to do whatever I can to control oil to the top end as I am usung an S&S EVO oil pump

Post Mon May 05, 2008 4:38 am
Chris: FYI

S&S Instruction Sheet #51-1041 "Installation Instructions for S&S Big Twin Oil Pump Kits" has the info we have discussed. Page 13 upper right hand corner (on paper copy - online might be different). The specific reference is Section 9 "Initial Startup and Post-operation Checks - all years". Both the .060 metering hole and the pump gears are discussed. Hope this helps.

Post Mon May 05, 2008 6:18 am

Posts: 2687
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Thank you Brent,
I want to try to remove as many bugs as I can before the problems arise.

Post Mon May 05, 2008 4:28 pm

Posts: 216
Location: Georgia
Chris Haynes
Read the last few posts here on Exon Valdez. Some folks said I was treating the symptom and not the problem but since I restricted the oil it has not been a probem. I put about 200 miles on it this weekend. Still have not washed it though.
F
Last edited by fhsmith1 on Mon May 05, 2008 4:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Post Mon May 05, 2008 4:30 pm

Posts: 216
Location: Georgia
Chris Haynes
See the last few posts on "exon valdez". Some said I was treating the symptom and not the problem. But since I restricted the oil it has not been a problem. Rode it about 200 miles this weekend. Still have not washed it though.
F
Last edited by fhsmith1 on Mon May 05, 2008 4:39 pm, edited 2 times in total.

Post Tue May 06, 2008 10:25 am

Posts: 79
Location: No. Andover, Mass. USA
I also went the route of metering the oil but at each rocker box by pressing in a solid aluminum rod into the the outside end of the stainless steel tubing connector and drilling it out. I don't remember what size though but likely .060. I counterbores the ends to accept the rod. I like the idea of having more than adequate oil pressure throughout the system right up to the problem area.

Dick

Post Tue May 06, 2008 3:06 pm

Posts: 62
Location: Texas' Big Bend country
Howdy Folks,

As some of you may remember, my students and I at Presidio High School have been assembling a Knucklehead engine to go in the bobber that we built a couple of years ago. We have finished the bike and I've put just under 1,000 miles on it over the last couple of weeks. I've been planning to post photos and do a complete write-up for y'all but the school firewall is resisting. I just got broadband at my house last week and will try to post photos from there.

In regards to over-oiling the heads with aftermarket cases and late-style pumps: we used S&S Superstock Timken-bearing cases, an S&S 31-6200 billet oil pump for B/T 36-72 driven by a stock Knucklehead drive gear, OEM cam cover set up for end-oiling, and OEM large-port Knuckleheads. The engine displaces 80 cubic inches. I recieved advice from folks on the FHP board and from Al at S&S on setting up the end-oiling for the pinion and the oil feed to the heads. The end-oiling required that we plug an internal oil passage behind the pump and split the crank and head oil circuits. I put a small oil gauge where the overhead line would normally feed from the cam cover and ran the overhead line to the feed hole behind the rear lifter block on the S&S cases. Al suggested that I might want to restrict the overhead line to .060 at the crankcase end as well as at the rockerboxes, so I drilled three brass rivits and inserted them at all three openings of the Y-shaped overhead oil line at installation.

The motor started after two priming kicks, switch on, and varoom! We had to fiddle with the CV Keihin a little, but the bike is running real strong now. We had a small oil seep frm the base of the rear head exhaust valve spring cover, which has since sealed itself up, otherwise, no leaks. The mini oil gauge on the cam cover (I have no idea how accurate it really is) shows 45 pounds of pressure on start-up going to the pinion shaft, rapidly dropping to 10 pounds as the oil warms. I'm running Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50W. There is a little gear whine coming from the cam case but with new cam and generator drive gears I'm not too surprised; I think it will quiet down as things bed in. The carb is still set a little rich, but I think that's best until the motor is completely broken in.

Later --- Randall

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