Board index Flathead Power-Technical Questions, Answers, and Suggestions Knuckles sealing intake ports

sealing intake ports

Moderators: Curt!, Pa

Post Sat Jun 09, 2012 12:48 pm

Posts: 19
Location: Valentine, NE 69201
What does S&S use on their knuckle and panhead motors? I'm thinking of using a steam fitting goop, from Deacon.
Thanks,
Steve
It's a hard life if you don"t weaken.

Post Mon Jun 11, 2012 7:26 am

Posts: 19
We use "the right stuff" by Permatex on our Knuckle intakes, and snug them as tight as an expander wrench will allow, our pans have the shovel intake and exhaust ports so there isn't a thread in insert. A note about the Permatex sealant: Since it's not a thread locking compound, it will let your inserts back out some when disassembling in some instances, however it holds up to the heat and seals very well. We did this so if a customer wanted to change out to the o-ring adapter, he/she wont damage the threads in doing so. It may not be ideal for thread locking, but it will work well in keeping the heads fully functional and re-build-able for years to come.
Eric
S&S Cycle, Vintage Lead (formerly Flathead Power)

Post Tue Jun 12, 2012 12:41 pm

Posts: 19
Location: Valentine, NE 69201
What blend of Permatex?
It's a hard life if you don"t weaken.

Post Wed Jun 13, 2012 10:58 am

Posts: 536
Location: Wa, USA
The product data sheet for Permatex "The Right Stuff" states "Not for use on parts with gasoline contact"

Post Wed Jun 13, 2012 1:31 pm

Posts: 19
There is little to no gasoline contact to the threaded area of the intake nipples, "The right stuff" withstood our 200 hr engine dyno testing, the test mule engine and is still sealing in KKN-001 (first production KN engine built in late 2007)
Eric
S&S Cycle, Vintage Lead (formerly Flathead Power)

Post Wed Jun 13, 2012 6:35 pm

Posts: 3058
Location: Central Illinois, USA
FHP-Eric wrote:
There is little to no gasoline contact to the threaded area of the intake nipples, "The right stuff" withstood our 200 hr engine dyno testing, the test mule engine and is still sealing in KKN-001 (first production KN engine built in late 2007)

I was hopeing you were only making a bad joke.

....Cotten

Post Mon Jan 18, 2016 5:09 pm

Posts: 3058
Location: Central Illinois, USA
Eric!

One fellow emailed me today:

"Then I called S&S Cycle and talked with an engineer, he said that he had never
heard of that "The Right Stuff" sealant, and assured me that they had never used
it. We conversed and the only sealant that he said that they would used in a
situation as this, possibly, is "Arctic Cat Black" and to check that out. "

On a good note, "The Right Stuff" passed my fuel immersion tests just fine.

....Cotten

Post Tue Jan 19, 2016 8:39 am

Posts: 3058
Location: Central Illinois, USA
Anyone familiar with 'Arctic Black Cat'?

How about "Permashield"?

Thanks in advance,

.....Cotten

Post Tue Jan 19, 2016 9:37 am

Posts: 19
Location: Valentine, NE 69201
Cotton, googling Arctic Black Cat, I found some on Gearheads .com. It's a high temp silicon sealer in a tube. I also Found a Data sheet for some in an aerosol.
Steve
It's a hard life if you don"t weaken.

Post Tue Jan 19, 2016 5:28 pm

Posts: 108
i have read a post from olsen of carls cycle supply that they use JB weld, i have used a locktite product, forget the number but it is rated for high heat and has sealed and stayed put through several intake disassembles. i also did not drill through for the dreaded rivet but used a set screw indexed into a divot on the nipple. using a somewhat permanent sealant may concern some folks as far as removal at a later time, but i usually slice the nipple and collapse it rather than chance tearing up the cylinder threads. Mark

Post Tue Jan 19, 2016 6:23 pm

Posts: 24
mark59 wrote:
i have read a post from olsen of carls cycle supply that they use JB weld, i have used a locktite product, forget the number but it is rated for high heat and has sealed and stayed put through several intake disassembles. i also did not drill through for the dreaded rivet but used a set screw indexed into a divot on the nipple. using a somewhat permanent sealant may concern some folks as far as removal at a later time, but i usually slice the nipple and collapse it rather than chance tearing up the cylinder threads. Mark



Not a fan of Loctite 567 for general pipe thread sealing, it doesn't harden when set, or tolerate gear oils very well. Have had better luck with 577, it sets better, and I have had no trouble with it on hydraulic or gear oil fittings. There is a 580 which is designed for fuels but I have never tried it.

Post Wed Jan 20, 2016 8:42 am

Posts: 3058
Location: Central Illinois, USA
I, too, Folks,..

...have used JBWeld with success, even more than the "Fluid Weld" I suggested in the VirtualIndian discussion (http://virtualindian.org/11techleaktest.html).
However, I found it needed to cure a couple of weeks at least to withstand my immersion tests.

I'm not familiar with those particular Loctite numbers, but I had a horrible failure on a WLA nipple with green Retaining Compound 35: I won't trust anything that tastes like saccharin around today's pump gas. And you can damn well bet fuel gets there!

I won't trust any threads anywhere to seal (except tapered pipe theads, of course.)
The nipple shoulder is supposed to seal butted against the casting, and the rivet by expansion when "upset". Rivets seal easiest with a tapered head on the inside, allowing for a much more authentic appearance on the outside with just a straight smack of the hammer (no over-peening necessary), provided the rivet is a slip-fit in its hole.

....Cotten


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