Top motor mount

Was changing my gummy worms and went to take my top motor mount off .It came off in 3 pieces. I have welded this mount many times. Was hoping to find a heavy duty top mount.Any body know of a place to get a good mount? I am thinking it time to make my own.

live to ride tshoe

..

or a 100 inch motor.

ride to live tshoe

My stroked Knuckle motor has a little collection of motor mounts hanging next to it, 9 at last count:). Found an old dirty motor mount at a local swap meet, put it on an it's been in one piece for 4 years now.

Bruce Linsday makes an excellent reproduction Knuck motor mount.

How would I go about finding Bruce Linsday and his motor mounts? Only ones I can find are garbage, from over seas butchers.

[Pa]

Google him in Ohio

Googled him, found no contact info. Good pictures of his bikes and different articles, tho.

Neil74

Shoot me an e-mail, I order from him about three times a week and can add what you need.

Kurt

kurt@45partsdepot.com

Thanks, Kurt I'll take you up on that offer as soon as I can get back to the Knucklehead. I just need to finish my 73 Shovel, then my 82 Shovel, the 73 Sporty, my brothers 69 FLH... I don't know how everything keeps backing up here but at times I feel like nothings moving ahead or out:)

With my 4-5/8" Stroked knuck, I found that spacing the motor mount exactly right at the head and the frame attach points was critical to not having them break. They have to be perfectly flat at the points they meet the head and the the frame bracket, and flush against the head. At the frame bracket, I found I needed a thin washer between the mount and the bracket so the mount was not being stressed as it was pulled tight. I also weld small strips of re-inforcing steel on the long runs of the mount, grind all the rough spots down smooth to eliminate as many stress risers as possible, and after welding and or chroming, always "bake" them to normalize the steel. Welding and chroming causes hydrogen embitlement which makes the steel very britle. In aviation "baking" after any form of plating is mandatory for that reason. That seems to have solved the problem for me. A stock engine might not break a lot of top mounts, but with stroked engines, and especially if the mounts are aftermarket, they seem to break a lot. My engine runs very smooth because I had as much carefull balance work performed as possible while assembling it, but it still is a very old 'V' design which has an inherent imbalance designed into it.

The last time the mount broke, I also cracked the case from the cylinder base to the timeing plug hole on the front cylinder. I think I'll put stock wheels back in and get a set of S&S cases to beat the hell out of. This 45 FL has earned a much needed rest:)

Thanks guys for all the ideas. Looks like it time to make my own. Anybody worked with putting extra mounts off the back bone down to each head like on some dragbikes? Seems like it would help take some stess off the cases.


ride to live tshoe

Thanks guys for all the ideas. Looks like it time to make my own. Anybody worked with putting extra mounts off the back bone down to each head like on some dragbikes? Seems like it would help take some stess off the cases.


ride to live tshoe

I think that I'd still also want a brace between the two cylinders at the top. The one I am running now, I did pretty much make myself, but I started with an aftermarket one, then added metal where I could to beef it up. I check it regularly too because once that breaks, it is common to then break the case mount to frame on the front left side. As someone else mentioned above, you can also break the case around the bottom of the cylinders down to the timing hole. I also found that using a Balance Master on the front motor pully or sprocket, made a big difference in how smooth the engine felt.