Oily Knuckle!!!!

Can anyone help please, i bought a new 88" V-twin Knuck motor last year, fired it up sunday and on tick over is ok but blip the throttle and smokes real bad!! Stripped top end and found loadsa oil on top of pistons and in heads obviously unburnt and looks like shes over oiling! Has anybody had the same experience with one of these motors? I was wondering if new syle oil pump produces more oil than origonal and oil cant clear fast enough from rockers. Ive seen the drain in the tappet block and this looks way too small, would boring a couple of grooves in each tappet block let the oil out quicker? Ive read a little and understand that vaccum is reuired to suck the oil out, checked all seals and are ok. Has anybody restriced the oil flow to the top end and does this work? I believe oem knucks had a problem aswell but not as bad as this.
please any info would gratefully be recieved
regards
Cooky(England)

Are you sure it's not just wetsumping while it's been standing for awhile?

No wet sumpin, theres a drain plug in the s&s cases nothin in there at all. Thanks

Use the search function on this list. There has been lots said about over-oiling top ends and V-twin engines (with their inherent problems).

Thanks mate i will, im new to this forum only joined other day and not very computer literate.
Thanks

I restricted the oil to the rockers on my 41 knuckle due to over oiling and leaking valve tins. I plugged the gear cover oil line fitting and drilled it 1/64 inch. Oil leaks stopped. You are not the first person that I've heard complaining about their new V-Twin knuckle. I suspect they are more for looking at than riding.....Bill

thanks for that, ive got the top end stripped off now and checking everything, bores dont even look like theyve been finished!! rocker shaft end play was way out, loose valve cover tins, the list goes on. Who put these motors together, blind people? ive never seen such shite workmanship!! I only hope the s&s bottom end is better, gonna check breather gear timing next and ive put a 60 thou insert into the top end oiler union to see if this will work. Will let you know....

Does anybody know what seals i can use on valve guides and if shovelhead rocker arm bushes will fit, so i can get rid of them spiral ones?

Use fluro viton seals from Ed Rowe.
John

Also check that the lifters don't have holes in the top of the body (Eastern). I fought that perticular problem for quite awhile. I also drilled holes (.060") in allen plugs and tapped all three fittings going to the heads: at the advise of S&S tech. I would replace rocker arms with Flatheadpower, since they don't have the spirial cut internally that V/Twin added. On my lifters, I set in a small can of water, with ground clamp to the neck, and tacked the holes shut. The main thing is to not let them get too hot. The top is braised to the body prior to heat treating. Hope that helps some.
Steve

Use fluro viton seals from Ed Rowe.

John

Hi and thanks for getting back to us, do you know where i can buy them from in England?

Also check that the lifters don't have holes in the top of the body (Eastern). I fought that perticular problem for quite awhile. I also drilled holes (.060") in allen plugs and tapped all three fittings going to the heads: at the advise of S&S tech. I would replace rocker arms with Flatheadpower, since they don't have the spirial cut internally that V/Twin added. On my lifters, I set in a small can of water, with ground clamp to the neck, and tacked the holes shut. The main thing is to not let them get too hot. The top is braised to the body prior to heat treating. Hope that helps some.
Steve

I do have holes in the top of the lifter blocks, but arnt they to let the oil escape to cam chest? I dont understand, why are you welding these holes shut and for what reasons please? Ive not heard of this before.
regards
cooky

Also check that the lifters don't have holes in the top of the body (Eastern). I fought that perticular problem for quite awhile. I also drilled holes (.060") in allen plugs and tapped all three fittings going to the heads: at the advise of S&S tech. I would replace rocker arms with Flatheadpower, since they don't have the spirial cut internally that V/Twin added. On my lifters, I set in a small can of water, with ground clamp to the neck, and tacked the holes shut. The main thing is to not let them get too hot. The top is braised to the body prior to heat treating. Hope that helps some.
Steve

I do have holes in the top of the lifter blocks, but arnt they to let the oil escape to cam chest? I dont understand, why are you welding these holes shut and for what reasons please? Ive not heard of this before.
regards
cooky

I beliver he said lifters, not lifter blocks.

A new engine about one season old that you have to re-engineer to make it work. Amazing . . . .

Engine sorted now, after all the messin around, machining, etc ive put 400 miles on her so far and is running great!! No excuses though you shouldnt have to do all this on a £8000 motor. I hope s&s have sorted all their probs out?!
regards to everyone that helped on this subject, thank heavens for these forums thats what isay.....
Cooky............

What caused the excess lubrication?

What caused the excess lubrication?

Assembly by V-Twin.

No shit Sherlock

Cooky,

You write " I hope s&s have sorted all their probs out?! "

I hope your not confusing S & S with V-Twin. Even thought it's not right I'm not surprized at hearing the issues with V-Twin but would not expect the same with S & S.

ricochet

I suggest you read the other forums on aftermarket knucks mate and my lower end is S&S not just v twin, so get your facts right before havin a go at me.....