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UL valve spring covers

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STROKER

Posts: 104

Joined: Fri Jan 06, 2006 5:35 pm

Location: VOLUNTEER STATE

Post Sat Jan 13, 2007 2:32 pm

UL valve spring covers

Wanting to finish the KH/WL project this year;have decided to use VL/UL valve spring covers on the KH cylinders,anyone have any info on this? TIA STROKER
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Chris Haynes

Posts: 2648

Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2000 12:01 am

Location: Los Angeles, CA

Post Sat Jan 13, 2007 2:39 pm

There are two different kinds of UL covers. Which are you looking for?
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panic

Post Sun Jan 14, 2007 12:04 pm

By VL/UL I assume you mean the 3-piece threaded covers 1930-38 that screw on to the 45 blocks?
Height is OK for 45, too short for KH.
Probably needs clearance grinding on the fins and flange inside.
Threads mean the alignment must be excellent or you'll never get them started. Remember the KH stems are tilted in at the top, so you need 2 different alignments on each cover (in and back), and intakes and exhausts are different. The spacer/washer between the top cover and the guide flange should be wide enough to cover the top of the cover (don't just use the KH spacer) or it will bend with big springs.
If you're careful you might try to bevel the washers (intake at about 1/2 degree, exhaust at about 3-1/2 degrees), and assemble the stuff with very light springs. Now rotate the washer's thin edge toward the cylinder until the cover aligns; mark it. Take apart, and notch the flange edge and washer edge where they should match before final assembly. You can't use an O-ring etc. here unless you make an extra spring seat that seats on guide flange, and the O-ring only seals the upper cover - more work, more leaks.
The 1940-48 (spring loaded) covers require the UL-only (lipped) blocks, and they use compression to seal; the amount of compression can be crudely adjusted.
<<

STROKER

Posts: 104

Joined: Fri Jan 06, 2006 5:35 pm

Location: VOLUNTEER STATE

Post Sun Jan 14, 2007 1:14 pm

Panic,thanks,yes,I was talking about the early UL/VL covers. STROKER
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panic

Post Mon Jan 15, 2007 9:47 pm

Just remember that there are 2 factors here: the alignment of the cover with the tappet block threads, and the alignment of the spring with the guide flange. It's a lot of work to get both correct, and just aligning the cover will cock the spring and cause premature guide/stem wear.
To separate the 2, you need the sealing interface between lowest cover and block to be at the weird angle. This means making a beveled (permanent) top by slicing a block and re-attaching threads, machining an O-ring, quad seal etc. surface to replace the block threads (like the -40 covers) at an angle, or just a hose etc. to forestall leaks. A really clean install is very tough, which is why you see so many older motors with hose.
<<

Chris Haynes

Posts: 2648

Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2000 12:01 am

Location: Los Angeles, CA

Post Tue Jan 16, 2007 10:53 pm

Just so it doesn't disapear

Panic said,
By VL/UL I assume you mean the 3-piece threaded covers 1930-38 that screw on to the 45 blocks?
Height is OK for 45, too short for KH.
Probably needs clearance grinding on the fins and flange inside.
Threads mean the alignment must be excellent or you'll never get them started. Remember the KH stems are tilted in at the top, so you need 2 different alignments on each cover (in and back), and intakes and exhausts are different. The spacer/washer between the top cover and the guide flange should be wide enough to cover the top of the cover (don't just use the KH spacer) or it will bend with big springs.
If you're careful you might try to bevel the washers (intake at about 1/2 degree, exhaust at about 3-1/2 degrees), and assemble the stuff with very light springs. Now rotate the washer's thin edge toward the cylinder until the cover aligns; mark it. Take apart, and notch the flange edge and washer edge where they should match before final assembly. You can't use an O-ring etc. here unless you make an extra spring seat that seats on guide flange, and the O-ring only seals the upper cover - more work, more leaks.
The 1940-48 (spring loaded) covers require the UL-only (lipped) blocks, and they use compression to seal; the amount of compression can be crudely adjusted.
<<

Chris Haynes

Posts: 2648

Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2000 12:01 am

Location: Los Angeles, CA

Post Tue Jan 16, 2007 10:54 pm

Just so it doesn't disapear

Panic said,
Just remember that there are 2 factors here: the alignment of the cover with the tappet block threads, and the alignment of the spring with the guide flange. It's a lot of work to get both correct, and just aligning the cover will cock the spring and cause premature guide/stem wear.
To separate the 2, you need the sealing interface between lowest cover and block to be at the weird angle. This means making a beveled (permanent) top by slicing a block and re-attaching threads, machining an O-ring, quad seal etc. surface to replace the block threads (like the -40 covers) at an angle, or just a hose etc. to forestall leaks. A really clean install is very tough, which is why you see so many older motors with hose.
<<

panic

Post Wed Jan 17, 2007 12:36 pm

I have a cure for this: I'm won't anwer questions, beginning immediately.

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