Board index Flathead Power-Technical Questions, Answers, and Suggestions K-Models K model intake nuts finish

K model intake nuts finish

Moderators: Curt!, Pa

Post Fri Jun 23, 2006 11:50 am

Posts: 330
Location: north central Ma.
Hi gang.
I got a second manifoild off ebay for my 52 K. I'm goting to send it to Cotten to get PEEK seals and i want to get new nuts before that.

NOSParts has them in Parker, Cad, Chrome.

What was stock?

Oh 2 more for you.

I see alot about LINKERT being paint black (though i've not seen one black) what do you used on them?

What was the finish in the intake? Rust?

Thanks for the help!

44dwarf
"Smok'in the competition NOT Tobacco"
"Transplant organs, Don't bury them!"
Why dwarf? 5/8 scale race cars! http://www.dwarfcarracing.com

Post Fri Jun 23, 2006 9:07 pm

Posts: 2399
Location: atascadero cal usa
cad black and cad on the finishes

Post Sat Jun 24, 2006 2:24 am

Posts: 2687
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Cad black???

Post Sat Jun 24, 2006 10:21 am

Posts: 2399
Location: atascadero cal usa
3 questions 3 finishes

Post Sat Jun 24, 2006 1:28 pm

Posts: 2687
Location: Los Angeles, CA
So you mean Cad, Black, and Cad? If so what is the black?

Post Sat Jun 24, 2006 7:54 pm

Posts: 71
Location: Northern IL, USA
Linkert

Post Sat Jun 24, 2006 9:09 pm

Posts: 3131
Location: Central Illinois, USA
44Dwarf!

Sorry to get into this Abbot&Costello routine so late, and I wish I could keep it going,...but I'm no entertainer.

Instead:

Your manifold nuts would have been cadmium from the Factory.
Modern reproductions have had a funny green tinge lately, and one set that arrived unpackaged I swore was zinc. Then an identical set from Colony arrived, still labelled as cad.
So if you want an authentic finish and want it to age appropriately, you must go the extra mile and have your own finishers plate your hardware.

(If anyone knows a plentiful source of top quality cad manifold nuts for H-Ds, let us know!)

As far as the body finish of H-D Linkerts, enamelled black is dictated. Drippy black is what I have found on unrestored units, but they weren't H-Ds.

Your manifold matched the nuts with the same plating.

If I am to recondition the manifold, please do not have it plated beforehand!

Beware! The spigots of WR/K are comparatively thin and and most prone to distortion form overtorquing, or just falling down upon them. I routinely must attempt to swage each spigot back to a reasonable outside diameter before I then lathe-cut it back to true-and-round. This takes and extra ten minutes ($10).
Lathe-cutting the spigots true is twenty minutes, same as a T unit. Grinding the flange to flat is five. Any blast prep is another five. As a courtesy I prep the manifold with a gas-proof isocyanate urethane that closely mimics cad (or add bronze powder to simulate nickle as needed.) It will inhibit rust but not plating.

Then, after all that, I can custom-fit a pair of PEEK seals for $60.

Return shipping in the USA averages $8.50; I cut on Sundays and ship on Mondays.

I thank our host for allowing this shameless self-promotion.


...Cotten
OH yeah PS:
Chromed units are scrap. Don't send them unless you can endure a stiff penalty.

Post Sun Jun 25, 2006 7:15 am

Posts: 330
Location: north central Ma.
Who in first?
He's stuck in second.
I don't know who's in third..........

Good thin we only have 4 speeds!! :lol: :lol:

Thanks for the info.

The intake looked to have no finish when i cleaned in in the dish washer.
I fine glass beaded it so it can be plated after i get the PEEK seals. I do have a few good plateer /coating places around hear.

I don't want a restored bike but if i take it off to do work it gets put back as close to factroy as possible.

Thanks again.

44
"Smok'in the competition NOT Tobacco"
"Transplant organs, Don't bury them!"
Why dwarf? 5/8 scale race cars! http://www.dwarfcarracing.com


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