Board index Flathead Power-Technical Questions, Answers, and Suggestions Shovels Super E

Super E

Post Fri Aug 27, 2010 8:54 am

Posts: 251
Location: Hudson, Florida
My brother has a SuperE on his 69 FLH. He had a .0295 intermediate and a .074 main jet, bike ran strong but the plugs were wet when I pulled them out. I pulled the .074 and replaced with a .070 main, still ran good, plugs still wet. I turned the idle mixture screw in from 1/3/4 turns to 1 turn open, the plugs are dry with only a little wet spot . Pulled .0295 and installed .028 bike runs good with idle mixture screw between 1/3/8 to 1/1/2 open now. I have a cough just off idle from a light if the enrichener is all the way shut, happens on both .028 or .0295. If I just touch the enrichener up, no noticeable rise in rpms, the cough is gone, bike will run good for hours with no cough. Tap the enrichener down an cough is back, driving me nuts any ideas?

Post Sat Aug 28, 2010 12:00 pm

Posts: 152
Location: Carver, MN

If you haven't done this already, I would start by adjusting the idle mixture screw like this: Turn it in until idle drops off, note that position, and then turn it out until idle drops off. Then adjust it to half way between those two points. Sometimes an adjustment 1/8 turn rich from the half way point will work best. Also, on an E of G it can be helpful to do your tuning with the accelerator pump turned off since it can mask lean adjustments. Final adjustment on the accelerator pump normally would be a visual with it adjusted to the minimum that still gives a "solid" squirt. If you don't have the instruction sheet for the carb, I am pretty sure it is available online from S&S.

Post Sat Aug 28, 2010 3:41 pm
Pa Site Admin

Posts: 5843
Location: Ohio USA

My thoughts....Enricher is leaking. Check seal installation and or assembly of components. I'm pretty sure they can be assembled incorrectly and still go all together.

Post Sat Aug 28, 2010 7:36 pm

Posts: 33
Well, I don't mean to critisize, but most people don't know how to read plugs. If you run the bike and then idle in to a stop, then pull the plugs and try to read them, it means nothing at all regarging how the engine was running when it was under power. They should read very rich under those circumstances. The correct way to read plugs, is to run the engine under load at medium to high power settings for at least 30 seconds to a minute. Then without rolling off the throttle, kill the engine, pull in the clutch and roll to a stop. Very hard to do on a street bike, but the only way plug readings really mean anything. You can do the same thing on a dyno, but not on a city street. With that said, I'd go right by the S&S carb set-up instructions. Its free on line from S&S and is very good.

Post Sun Aug 29, 2010 10:25 am

Posts: 251
Location: Hudson, Florida
If the idle mixture screw is more than 13⁄4 turns out after idle mixture is correctly adjusted, it is a fairly good indication that the intermediate jet may be ••too small and should be changed to the next larger size. If the idle mixture screw ends up less than 11⁄4 turn out, the intermediate jet may need to be changed to the next smaller size. Be aware that idle mixture screw adjustment can be effected by other factors, but can quite often indicate rich or lean intermediate jetting.
NOTE: Turning screw out (counterclockwise) makes idle mixture richer. Turning screw in (clockwise) makes mixture leaner. Normally, correctly adjusted screw will be between 11⁄4 and 3⁄4 turns out from bottom if intermediate jet size is correct. Note that mixture screw must be adjusted according to Step 3 above. Do not leave screw at initial 11⁄2 turn setting without fine tuning.
Thanks for the lesson on plug reading Boots99, another way to check them is to ride it and see how it runs, what the tailpipe looks looks like and how the plugs are burning after a ride.
With that said which of these two instructions of S&S would you say is right, two paragraphs away from each other in SuperE instructions:) correctly adjusted between 1/1/4 and 3/4 turns or if 1/1/4 turn out you need a smaller jet?
The problem seems to be in the enrichener, I'll pull it apart an see whats up:)

Post Sun Aug 29, 2010 11:14 am

Posts: 33
I'd say that those 2 different paragraphs of instructions are not mutually exclusive. They are both correct. First they are saying that the idle screw is set correctly if it ends up between 1-1/4 and 1-3/4 turns out. No problem with that because 1-1/2 turns is where they say is perfect mid position. The next paragprah is telling you that if the idle mixture ends up at the extreme on either end of that setting, that you can improve the overall situation by changing the intermediate jet 1 step up or down and then retry the idle setting hoping to get it closer to the center. Keep in mind that the engine will run fine within a pretty broad range of settings, so these instructions are to help you find the starting position, and then fine tune things as far as you want to go with that. The way I set my intermediate jet is by how the engine runs and if it pops much when I back off the throttle. For all of those adjustments, they also tell you to set the accel pump completely off because it will badly confuse the settings and readings. Then use just the minimum amount of accel pump to try to prevent the engine from burping when you rap the throttle. The less accel the better. Many people leave it turned completly off. I agree with you that a much better thing to read after a ride is the color of the tailpipe then the plugs. Wet plugs would be a concern of course because if you are rich enough actually leave them wet, even at idle, then something is sending a lot of raw fuel in. A badly adjusted float will do that. Also, wet oil on the plugs is a serious problem, but a different issue. I really like the 'E' carb because it is so easy to tune and swap jets out of. There are certainly better carbs out there as far as performance goes, but the 'E' is so simple and works so well for me, that I stick with it.

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