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S&S Flywheels

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Post Sun Dec 16, 2007 11:00 pm

Posts: 53
Location: Lebanon, Missouri
I have been told that the older (pre 1980) S&S Flywheels,
# 32-2219, 4 1/2" stroke, that are for the early Pan's '48-'53,
will also take the later Pan timkin style pinion shaft and sprocket shaft.
Any one ever heard this ? Or know any thing about this ?
I CELERITER TEMPUS DEFICIT.........
CARPE DIEM

Post Mon Dec 17, 2007 9:36 am
panic

Not familiar with the part number - S&S changed their part numbers every 2 years for a long time.
However, this is how they group as pairs:
1936-54
1955-71
1972-81
1981-*

Early roller definitely does not fit left Timken.

Post Mon Dec 17, 2007 6:29 pm

Posts: 53
Location: Lebanon, Missouri
panic wrote:
Not familiar with the part number - S&S changed their part numbers every 2 years for a long time.
However, this is how they group as pairs:
1936-54
1955-71
1972-81
1981-*

Early roller definitely does not fit left Timken.


Thanks Panic,
Yup,I know the timkin shafts and rollers are not inter-changeable.
But where I was going with this is are the tapers on the ends of the shafts, where they go into the wheel the same ?
As for the part # 32-2219 , that is stamped on my flywheels,and is still listed in S&S as a working part number.
I have a chance to get a mached set of '55 cases. I would like to put my S&S flywheels in them.
I CELERITER TEMPUS DEFICIT.........
CARPE DIEM

Post Tue Dec 18, 2007 8:53 am

Posts: 639
Location: Wisconsin, USA
The pinion shaft taper is the same, the sprocket shaft is not. You can send the flywheel to S&S and they will recut the taper for a reasonable fee.

Post Tue Dec 18, 2007 2:22 pm

Posts: 53
Location: Lebanon, Missouri
amklyde wrote:
The pinion shaft taper is the same, the sprocket shaft is not. You can send the flywheel to S&S and they will recut the taper for a reasonable fee.

Recut (taper) a new sprocket shaft or rebore the flywheel ? :?
And thanks for the pinion shaft info.
I CELERITER TEMPUS DEFICIT.........
CARPE DIEM

Post Wed Dec 19, 2007 12:06 pm

Posts: 646
Location: Detroit
You can always call S&S direct, ask for technical support, give them the numbers off your wheels, and ask them. They will tell you what you need to know and what can be done.

BTW, STD and Andrews are other good companies that will help you with their products as well.
New Knuckleheads? Thank, you, Jesus!!

Post Thu Dec 20, 2007 9:20 pm

Posts: 53
Location: Lebanon, Missouri
krazy loop wrote:
You can always call S&S direct, ask for technical support, give them the numbers off your wheels, and ask them. They will tell you what you need to know and what can be done.

BTW, STD and Andrews are other good companies that will help you with their products as well.


Thanks, as I get futher along into this project, I have found more of what fits what.
A lot of the parts from my '50 will move to the later cases, and the later cases will have to be modified to
take my oil pump and Shovel cylinders. And the beat goes on. 8)
My new cases came in today. :D
Slober, drool, but they will have to wait till after the first of the year. :cry:
I CELERITER TEMPUS DEFICIT.........
CARPE DIEM

Post Thu Dec 20, 2007 11:13 pm

Posts: 646
Location: Detroit
Maybe I missed something but why do you need to modify your cases for shovel cylinders? They should just bolt on. For a Pan lower you will have to make an oil line to feed the shovel rocker boxes. A good place to get oil from if you don't have 63 - 65 cases is the oil pump pressure sending unit hole. You can get a brass Tee fitting, etc., and some steel brake line from the auto parts and make up everything you need basically with a hacksaw and a wrench or two, and still have an operable sending unit. This assumes you have a stock pan cast iron oil pump.
New Knuckleheads? Thank, you, Jesus!!

Post Thu Dec 20, 2007 11:59 pm

Posts: 53
Location: Lebanon, Missouri
krazy loop wrote:
Maybe I missed something but why do you need to modify your cases for shovel cylinders? They should just bolt on. For a Pan lower you will have to make an oil line to feed the shovel rocker boxes. A good place to get oil from if you don't have 63 - 65 cases is the oil pump pressure sending unit hole. You can get a brass Tee fitting, etc., and some steel brake line from the auto parts and make up everything you need basically with a hacksaw and a wrench or two, and still have an operable sending unit. This assumes you have a stock pan cast iron oil pump.


O.K., yeah, I left out the part about the STD Pan heads.
The return in the cylinders has been lowered, because of the stroker pistons.
And the oil pump is a Shovel with Evo innards.
With my old cam cover I drilled and taped off the top of the rear of the cover, and ran a braided s/s Shovel feed line to the rear rocker box. It was a tight as a banjo string, but it worked !
But that was when it was a Chubble.
Now going back to a Pan, and later cases.
And doing my best not make this as had as Chinese arithmetic ! :mrgreen:
I CELERITER TEMPUS DEFICIT.........
CARPE DIEM


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