A 1955-1957 Replica Curb Appeal

Let's look at a replica Pan from a point of view most critical, standing 10 feet away, from off the right handlebar.
What's the first thing you see, maybe the cam cover? 8 fin or 4? doesn't matter, the AM (aftermarket) ones look real enough. Any argument Then, the next thing that pops out are the tanks and emblems (if any), and the brain's constantly scanning for mind-eye-fraud. Those are the first areas the eyes travel to.
Look the the front fork: Headlight - ok, sliders - ok, fork panels - ok, handlebars - ok,
Aftermarket GAS TANKS - NOT OK, oil tank - ok, STD spigot exhaust head - ok (until proven otherwise in a close-up pic from someone), relay crankcase - ok, V-Twin (complete Pan motor [10-1995]- ok, (available and no bad reports on this site), Saddle- ok (Harley-Davidson® 52006-47B), fenders- ok, rims and spokes - ok, taillight - ok, what else
We need accurate replica 3.5 tanks and a whole new world will open, but we can't have even one stinker hallmark part included in the mix. You can have a mix of different years Harley style parts, and not cause a mental "tilt" light to go off, as long as it looks right from every view.
Real tanks will start a few people building in a very short time, because the tanks will look good sitting on a kit, while they are buying parts and building it. And, they know their gas line & shut off valve is going to hook up correctly when they need it.
All the other problems for replication-restoration, and building a V-Twin '41-59 rolling chassis with working brakes are stepped-out in Vol. 2. The only machine shop tool you might need is a lathe, to move an axle taper, but the taper doesn't fit into a cone, so I guess someone else might use a bench grinder.
This is a 70% replica, (30% OEM - tanks, saddle {available} and trans) '55-57 V-Twin kit.

And keep the sliders wrapped in paper. They scratch easily.