Big Fixx Clutch Kit

Has anyone used a Big Fixx (VT 20-0229) [52 long rollers to replace the off-set rollers), (i can type two sentences and the post reverts to de-bug mode maybe crying will help). Guess so, I got another couple of words printed, by toggling between edit and submit
Did the Big Fixx eliminate clutch wobble?

Hi Plumber.... The "Big Fix" did every thing it claimed it would for me with my 56. No more hub wobble and finding neutral is un-believably easy.

I installed the clutch hub "Tamer" at the same time and it made a world of differance. I say give it a try. -Steve

How long do you big fix users go between lube jobs on the rollers? And what type of lube do you use to replace the original stuff? Mike

That grease looks like white lithium (car door hinge grease).

Just back from sturgis Where I melted a belt for the first time. Called Karata and Jims second Question was did I install the big fix. Too much bearing surface. Heat tranfer.

Too much bearing surface. Heat tranfer

They have a point. The aluminum motor pulley and shell are heat-sinks.

The term heat sink usually refers to a mass that soaks off excess heat and disperses it by radiation or convection.

heat sink
–noun
1. Thermodynamics. any environment or medium that absorbs heat.
2. Also, heatsink. Electronics. a metallic heat exchanger designed to absorb and dissipate excess heat from one of the devices, as a transistor or resistor, in a circuit.(Dictionary.com)

Let us also ponder where this extra heat would have to come from?
The rollers only encounter mild friction while the clutch is disengaged. When the machine is rolling down the road with the rollers stationary, the only friction sources would be from the distant mainshaft/drivegear bushing,....or the belt itself.

.....Cotten

Does anyone have a photo of a belt that has "melted" cause I don't believe I've ever seen one.
I don't doubt that it can happen but, it would have to require some serious heat I'm sure.

Belt drives can be peculiar beasts. Many guys are adjusting them way to tight, then when the bike is
ridden in summer weather the belts become unbelievably tight causing a long list of repairs. (Crank bearings, transmission bearings/seals) just to mention a few.

One lesson I learned about belts the hard way. I was planning a long haul so I gave my bike a major service. I tore apart my belt and clutches to make sure I had fresh grease on my clutch hub bearings. I reassembled the bike and headed off to Reno. I pulled off Hwy 395 at a little spot called Little lake, CA. When I downshifted I felt my bike freewheel. I downshifted again and had no power to the rear wheel at all. Looking at my belt there were no teeth left in it. I later found out this was caused because I had reinstalled my belt turning in the opposite direction it had been turning. Breaking down hundreds of miles from the nearest belt is a sure fire way to never forget that lesson.

The Karata belt has a lot of plastic instead of rubber. My belt was so melted in a big glop at the bottum of the primary and behind the clutch hub. The temp was 103F at high noon and grid lock traffic and I ride my foot clutch alot same as allways.Same style belt drive for 12 years first belt failure ever. will try to post picture.

live to ride Tshoe

Tshoe- Is your primary tin or '65- later aluminum? Primo belts are Kevlar. Belt tension for them is 1/2" up and 1/2" down. What are the free-play specs for Karata?

Sorry to drift this thread even further towards belt discussion, but I've heard somewhere that one can run two 1 1/2" belts side-by-side on a 3" setup. In case of a single belt failure you could apparently limp home on the remaining belt. Does this sound like a legitimate tip?

Plumber :my primary is 66 inner with the starter cut off and a tin outer with venting

live to ride tshoe