The stock aftermarket polished D-rings are usually a tight fit over the Pan covers. Not good. The D-rings bind at the corner bends and sometimes along the sides on almost all of the AM (aftermarket) covers. The inside walls of the D-ring ned to be dremeled away until the ring fits looser on the cover, which might allow some of the screw holes of cover, to drop though and stay plumb (straight up and down).
Any thread-stress to the D-ring screw holes in the head is instant damage, and if the screws are cocked because of the cover holes are eclipsing the D-ring holes, even the least bit, it will be hard on the head threads.
The fix, is to dremel out the cover holes to match the D-ring holes.
The covers are the problem (Paughco even). Elongating the holes to match the D-ring would seem the only way, but bad, if the screw holes at the ends of the cover require elongating into the cover cavity (since the holes at the end of the cover are already near the interior edge of the cavity) - promoting future leaks.
It's a known problem these cover holes. I looked at the '07 V-Twin catalog and they have replica stainless covers now, with the caption "...produced by New Tooling for exact fit and shape".
I talked to Paughco and they said ".. some of the holes have been off for a long time. There's a few of the holes you have to open up some, and the covers will fit".
11 of the 12 holes are eclipsed on mine.
I put the d-ring and cover together and stuck screws through it, looked at the bottom to see on which side I needed to remove material and Sharpie-marked only the half radius of each cover hole that needed it, then dremeled the holes (with lots of fitment sessions in between grind sessions).
Look at the screw on the far right. See how close it is to the interior (cavity)? When you have to dremel a hole inward, you risk creating a potential leak later. That transition radius (at the apex) of horizontal to vertical, is known as a "crown weir" (trap seal dam) in plumbing.