I bought these heads from Wisconsin Ray, Cole in 1999. They were in bad shape, but were headed for Accurate Engineering to be re-manufactured after I received them. I'm putting them into service now seven years later.
The work ticket read: 1/26/00
1. Valve guides (4)
2. 48-84 Teflon valve stem seals (kit)
3. Lower valve spring collars (4)
4. Rocker arms, RR Exh/Fr Intake (2)
5. Rocker arms, FR Exh/RR Intake (2)
6. 48-65 BT OEM Flex rocker arm nuts (16)
7. Front head - repair broken fin
8. Remove threaded insert from D-ring hole (nearest exhaust port); repair hole.
9. Rear head - Repair D-ring gasket surface (next to exh. valve spring).
10. Repair exhaust spigots.
11. Both heads - check valves, springs, seats, and guides.
12. Check rocker bearing blocks and arms for proper fitment and clearances.
Description of labor:
1. (5) hours - Tear down and weld fin, bolt hole and exhaust spigot - Foy 12:30 - 5:30 Friday.
2. (2) hours - Machine welds
3. (4) hours - Valve job
4. (1.5) hours - Clean, deburr and weld new rockers
This was a hole before. Filled and tapped at Accurate.
Fin was gone and took part of the gasket surface with it, then re-manufactured.
The spigots weren't removed, they were built up by with side-by-side vertical welds, then machined back to their original diameter.
I used Paughco rocker covers. This particular assembly required a little hand filing on certain holes to get the screws to drop through the D-ring. I put all the screws in as far as they would go, then turned the assembly upside down. For the screws that didn't fall out on their own weight, I made pen-marks at the exact spotn where the screw bound.
Then check them for fit about 5 or 10 times and you might end up with one or two that snag a little. The tilt of that middle bolt was due to the Pan cover hole being out of alignment with the D-ring hole. Could be my D-ring, could be the covers. Don't remove material past the seal-weir margin of the bolt holes (where it starts to roll to the vertical wall of the cover) or you'll create a leaker.
If you pull the screw back out and hold it right at the point where it begins to make contact, you can mark the exact place to Dremel some more material away.