Board index Flathead Power-Technical Questions, Answers, and Suggestions Pans Compensating Sprocket

Compensating Sprocket

Moderators: Curt!, Pa

Post Sat Feb 17, 2007 9:01 am

Posts: 25
Location: Upstate NY
Ok, similar post to my last one:
I've got the Panhead motor compensating sprocket assembly - the type with the big spring and the 4 holes on the end. To take it off of the motor, do I turn this to the right to loosen it, or to the left to loosen it?

Post Sat Feb 17, 2007 10:39 am

Posts: 903
Location: Hill City, Ks. USA

To the3 left, to the left, left, left. or counterclockwise. righty tighty, lefty loosy.

Post Sat Feb 17, 2007 11:38 am

Posts: 1536
Location: S.Calif.

Yep, I'd loosen it, loosen it, take it off and use it as an anchor on your fishing boat. You don't need a compensating sprocket, unless you pull a side-hack. IMO, put a 24-T motor sprocket and a 25 or 26-T transmission sprocket and have lower rpm at the rear wheel at 62 mph.
The faster your motor is forced to turn, the sooner it will wear out. 8)
And use a Tsubaki (pre-stressed) primary chain. They last longer than a Diamond, especially if you starve the chain for oil by turning the oil pump feed screw way down like I used to do, to keep oil from puddling under the primary cover if you parked it for like more than an hour. :lol:

Post Sat Feb 17, 2007 12:53 pm

Posts: 377
Location: madison wisconsin usa
it has regular threads and will loosen when turned to the left.

i cannot agree with plumber on this one, the compensating assembly cushions the drivetrain and makes it easier to shift the transmission.

i used to have a belt primary, i switched back to a chain and compensator. the bike shifts and drives better without the jerkyness i experienced with the belt (the belt was geared way to high anyway)

also, i know the chain compensator combo will not fail in the middle of nowhere!

all that just 'cuz you wanted to know what way to turn it!

btw, have you made the tool to get the nut off yet?


Post Sat Feb 17, 2007 4:36 pm

Posts: 25
Location: Upstate NY
Well, I made a tool. I got a little lazy and used what I thought were grade 5 bolts, and they were a slightly loose fit both in my flat steel handle and in the compensating sprocket nut holes. But I deluded myself and thought "maybe this will just get it started". Of course the bolts sheared off instantly, like I had made a tool intended to do the job of shearing bolts off. Next time I'm down at the store I'm going to get some proper hardened pins that fit up right. Any suggestions to increase my chances of getting it right on the next attempt? I once saw a picture of a guy with the two bolts through a piece of long pipe, to get extra leverage. I was going to try it but I didn't think I could drill radially through the pipe without it going crooked.

Post Sat Feb 17, 2007 7:59 pm

Posts: 1002
Location: Ojo Caliente,NM,USA
I made mine with hardened pins and a socket welded to the top so I could use an impact wrench.The rattle wrench makes all the diffence.

Post Mon Feb 19, 2007 4:00 pm

Posts: 1536
Location: S.Calif.

i used to have a belt primary..... (the belt was geared way to high anyway)

John HD what teeth pulleys did you use? The 31 motor, 47 clutch? How about the transmission sprocket? What tooth?

Post Mon Feb 19, 2007 5:16 pm

Posts: 377
Location: madison wisconsin usa

final drive was stock, the belt drive went to the dumpster years ago, i cannot remember how many teeth it had.

i do remember regaining alot of torque and throttle reponse by returning the bike to it's stock ratios.

it was a very early unit and undoubtly over geared.


Post Mon Feb 19, 2007 9:12 pm

Posts: 1536
Location: S.Calif.

Hope BenE got his comp. sprocket loosened.
I'm running a 31-T motor pulley, 47 clutch and 26-T tranny. Going try it out on the rigid Pan.. and if I like the feel (low end wise) at 62 mph, I'll make the Knuckle a belt too.

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