A safe way to remove the fork tube plug is to remove the bracket (hex) bolt, and loosen the bottom-tree pinch bolt. Slide the fork tube down far enough to get a wrench on the plug flats, then tighten the pinch bolt, and loosen the fork tube plug.
Then loosen the pinch bolt and raise the fork tube until the top of the plug is about a 1/2" away from the bottom edge of the top tree. Tighten the pinch bolt again. Then (wearing safety glasses) turn the fork tube plug out with a thin jawed wrench. The tube plug will snap upwards and into the top tree. Careful. Keep your fingers away from the plug or you'll lose some skin. Let the wrench do the work. The plug will snap up suddenly and capture the wrench.
(You can see between the spring coils - no baffle assembly.)
The shims were another item that have been excluded from the "rebuild kits" and the repop forks all together. There would be some "slamming" though if the clearance between the lower damper bushing and the (damper) snap ring is greater than 0.004". Most definitely. I checked the clearance on my repop forks as part of the "Fork" chapter. I made a note that mine was tighter than 0.004", so in my case, the slamming from excessive free-play in the damper assembly is not the reason with my V-Twin forks.
When I rebuilt my OEM forks years back, with a V-Twin kit, I had to remove all the shims, but maybe one, in order to get the 0.004" or less free-play. I kept the thin shims for later, but each OE damper had about three of them in there. Paper-thin shims of different thicknesses. Obsolete now.
This is where the shim(s) would go - directly under the bottom spacer in the damper valve kit. There are no shims in the V-Twin damper.
You measure between the bottom of the lower bushing and the top of the snap ring. 0.004" max. free play. I think I could get a 0.003 blade in between the ring and bushing, but not a 0.004.
When V-Twin or their jobber, re-popped the forks, they went through the fork assembly blueprints and removed as many parts as they could. There's no drain plug, no spring spacer, and I believe they re-made the damper bushings where no shims are needed, and they used a later, (fewer parts) "Gary Bang style" slider seal kit (no more felts). They knew what they were doing.
The "floor" of the repop slider is critical too. That floor that the 46125-48 damper gasket and 46121-48 lower bushing sit on has to be uniformily deep on each slider. The (+ or -) is as critical as 1/32" of an inch. Too deep and the damper stud will protrude past the [46128-48] "fixed" knurled washer that's a driven fit in the bottom of the slider.
When that happens you have to use extra paper gaskets [46111-48 and 46125-48] to take up the space and force the stud to retreat back into the slider, so the 7725 nut and washer can pull the damper stud into the paper gaskets to seal correctly. They will and do, because I had that problem with mine. A leaky slider that leaks no more. Not a drop.
And another modification the V-Twin engineers made, was to compensate for 1/32" variances in the slider floor bottoms. Those engineer fiends
added an "aluminum" washer between the 7725 nut and the (46161-49) "knurled" washer (the knurled washer's called a "plain" washer in the '49-57 Parts Catalog, but it's not plain, it's knurled), and the V-Twin aluminum washer is not in the original parts books. What this aluminum "crush" washer does, is to allow the protruding stud a maximum of 1/32" of crush-depth. So, if your damper stud protudes a tiny bit (but enough to where the slider will leak fluid like a sieve), then the dampers stud squared shoulders can sink into the crush washer and you still get a seal between the paper gaskets, because you haven't bottomed-out the threads on the damper stud, and the nut is still pulling on the damper against the paper gasket stack
Here's where you have to muscle the tube plug against spring pressure. With the "spacer" left in the slider of my OEM forks, the fork spring would rise up so far, that I couldn't get the spring compressed enough to gain purchase on the first threads in the I.D. of the tube.
Wear safety glasses.
Once the first thread starts, you can turn the fork tube (C.C.W) against the stationary plug (in your palm) as you're pushing down.
[Note there's paper covering the sliders. They scratch easily.