Tue Apr 13, 2010 7:08 pm
Unbelieveable Starting Problem and Solution
I just finished my electricstart 42 flathead I started in 1990 (marriage, divorce, changed jobs twice, moved out of state, etc.). It wouldn't crank. Now I am no newbie to Harleys. I have owned as many as four at one time, probably twenty in my lifetime. Most were built by me from parts. I am also building a cafe racer KHK on the backburner. So when I went through the carb about half a dozen times, tuned it several times, replaced the starter (0.8kW Accel Ultra Tork which is a joke - but it was cheap even though the seller told me it was a 1.4 kW), took everything apart at least twice, and it still wouldn't start even after verifying spark, fuel, and timing. I opened the plugs from 0.025 to 0.030 with no change. Three weeks into trying to start this puppy, and today, I happened to forget to replace the distributor cap and it started instantly. I put the cap back on and it wouldn't start. Wow! I knew it was going to be something very simple, but I never expected this.
Close inspection showed the point terminal was barely touching the cap when it was in place. One screwdriver and a repositioned terminal, and starting was a breeze. It runs beautifully, and there is nothing like the sound of a new flattie through drag pipes. The starting system operates flawlessly. I used a non-electric start 65 inner primary, 65 output shaft with re-tapered end, used rod bearings in a hogged out old race, and machined inner for one of the original BDL belt drives with idler. Much hogging of aluminum, and a lot of fitting for the solenoid. I used a tin outer just because I liked the looks of it. Had a lot of trouble getting it all to fit and work together, but right now I feel it was worth it.
It has a 4 speed tranny, 5 gal tanks, swingarm Paugho frame, lowered shocks, disc brakes front and rear, and a late model battery fit into an old saddle tank. I had to modify the clutch arm drastically, and fitting the drag pipes to clear everything including the kick starter was a trial, but it all works. It also has turn signals, horn, etc. for safety reasons.
Then I painted it Seafoam Green!
Now I get to go through the NC title trials. In case you don't live in NC, we have the worst title system for rejuvenating old titleless bikes in the USA. I will use the MCO from Paugho to start the process. It isn't going to be fun.
Jim
Close inspection showed the point terminal was barely touching the cap when it was in place. One screwdriver and a repositioned terminal, and starting was a breeze. It runs beautifully, and there is nothing like the sound of a new flattie through drag pipes. The starting system operates flawlessly. I used a non-electric start 65 inner primary, 65 output shaft with re-tapered end, used rod bearings in a hogged out old race, and machined inner for one of the original BDL belt drives with idler. Much hogging of aluminum, and a lot of fitting for the solenoid. I used a tin outer just because I liked the looks of it. Had a lot of trouble getting it all to fit and work together, but right now I feel it was worth it.
It has a 4 speed tranny, 5 gal tanks, swingarm Paugho frame, lowered shocks, disc brakes front and rear, and a late model battery fit into an old saddle tank. I had to modify the clutch arm drastically, and fitting the drag pipes to clear everything including the kick starter was a trial, but it all works. It also has turn signals, horn, etc. for safety reasons.
Then I painted it Seafoam Green!
Now I get to go through the NC title trials. In case you don't live in NC, we have the worst title system for rejuvenating old titleless bikes in the USA. I will use the MCO from Paugho to start the process. It isn't going to be fun.
Jim
Last edited by 42Flathead80 on Wed Apr 14, 2010 3:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
